Bledar Istrefi, who last winter sold his interest in the still-operating Il Polpo in Northeast Philadelphia, has surfaced in Mount Airy with Trattoria Moma (7131 Germantown Ave., 267-437-3838), assuming the storefront occupied for years by Umbria, across from Earth Bread + Brewery.
Istrefi, former chef at Bellini Grill in Center City, installed downtown polish at his white-tablecloth BYOB.
Dinner entrées are mostly in the teens, with a gust to $25 for the branzino. Istrefi bakes his own bread and makes his own desserts.
Like the chefs at many Italian restaurants, Istrefi is Albanian by birth and picked up the cuisine after immigrating to Italy.
Moma is open Tuesday to Saturday for lunch, Tuesday to Sunday for dinner.