Tuesday, September 30, 2014
Inquirer Daily News

There's less of Mike Stollenwerk

The chef has been keeping a low profile since starting at Headhouse Crab & Oyster Co.

There's less of Mike Stollenwerk

Mike Stollenwerk - for nearly a decade one of our town's most visible seafood chefs - has been operating under the radar since last summer.

After a round of bad luck with his own restaurants (Fish, Fathom) and a short-lived teaming at Branzino in Rittenhouse last year, he decamped to South Street and Headhouse Crab & Oyster Co.

He recently launched a menu that reprises versions of his earlier hits, including Fathom Fries (topped with crabmeat, brown gravy and Old Bay) and a decadent spin on skate: truffled skate frites that presents the firm-fleshed fish with truffle fries and truffle butter.

More important, Stollenwerk seems to have his head back on straight. Through a healthy diet and sessions of mixed martial arts, he has dropped 110 pounds.

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Michael Klein Philly.com
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Michael Klein, the editor/producer of philly.com/Food, writes about the local restaurant scene in his Inquirer column "Table Talk." Have a question? Email it! See his Inquirer work here. Reach Michael at mklein@philly.com.

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