Friday, January 30, 2015

Sauté eases into the fire

The romantic BYOB, backed by a vet of Alma de Cuba, opened the other night in Queen Village.

Sauté eases into the fire

One feature that so many new restaurants lack is a hint of romance: twinkling candles, subdued lighting, dark wooden furnishings, a mellow vibe.

Nicholas J. Cassidy and Hector Torres have solved it with Sauté, their BYOB, which opened Tuesday in Queen Village (775 S. Front St., 215-271-9300) after eight months of intense construction at what was La Creole. As in, the only way in and out of the basement was through a trapdoor behind the bar; they built a staircase and sealed the door.

Torres, who opened Roy's and worked in the front of the house at SoleFood at the Loews,  runs the dining room. The Le Cordon Bleu-educated Cassidy, last at Alma de Cuba, cooks a style that's French-influenced American. (Among apps are escargot and charcuterie, and there's a hamachi ceviche on there seemingly as a tip to Douglas Rodriguez.)

A few highlights: a baked Brie in puff pastry, filled with candied almonds and served with toast points -- more than enough for two for $12; a mound of tuna tartare, $10, with ginger, seaweed salad and sesame seeds and served with a little scoop of orange/cinnamon sorbet; duck breast, the most expensive item at $24, served with beet gnocchi and pancetta; beef short rib, $18, with a refreshing celery root puree (instead of the cliche mashed potatoes) and a side salad of truffled pea greens studded with grapes and blue cheese; and seared scallops, $22.50, served over a barley cassoulet (bacon, braised cabbage and cherry). Two apps, two entrees, $66 plus tip.

See the menu.

It's open daily for dinner, plus Saturdays and Sundays for brunch. (Brunch will start this Sunday.)

 

Michael Klein Philly.com
About this blog
Michael Klein, the editor/producer of philly.com/Food, writes about the local restaurant scene in his Inquirer column "Table Talk." Have a question? Email it! See his Inquirer work here. Reach Michael at mklein@philly.com.

Michael Klein Philly.com
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