Tuesday, September 1, 2015

Now open: NoBL in Lansdowne

Ambitious Mediterranean small plates in a former Delco hardware store.

Now open: NoBL in Lansdowne

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Next time someone sneers there's no menu ambition to be had in the suburbs, steer him to Lansdowne. (You can also put him on a Media-Elwyn train, for that matter.)

NoBL, a Mediterranean small-plate BYO from Stephen Wagner at the nearby Sycamore, opened Tuesday (6/26) in a long-ago hardware store at 24 N. Lansdowne Ave. It's a block off Baltimore Avenue - north, to be exact - which explains the NoBL name.

The early crowds tell good things about British-born Sam Jacobson's menu, particularly moussaka; mussels with garlic and chorizo broth; papparadelle with chicken livers; grilled octopus; grilled artichokes; and 10-inch grilled pizzas. 

Beneath the 20-foot ceilings are an assortment of seating arrangements, including a chef's counter with high chairs; dining tables encased in a wood-and-glass frame; and a private table in the back set against a twinkly-lighted back wall.

Keep in mind that it is a BYO. Wagner suggests toting vodka, gin or light rum to be stirred into a housemade mixer ($10 a liter). The current mixer is fizzy basil lemonade.

It's open daily at 5 p.m. and closes at 10 during the week and midnight on Friday and Saturday.

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Michael Klein, the editor/producer of philly.com/Food, writes about the local restaurant scene in his Inquirer column "Table Talk." Have a question? Email it! See his Inquirer work here.

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