Now open: Cresheim Valley Grain Exchange in Mount Airy

Jessica Mellen and Marvin Graaf at Cresheim Valley Grain Exchange, 7152 Germantown Ave.

Mount Airy has a brand-new semi-fine-dining option: Cresheim Valley Grain Exchange (7152 Germantown Ave., 267-766-2502), replacing the Wine Thief.

It's a cozy, low-lit bar with 12 American crafts on tap - though owner Marvin Graaf does not intend it to be a beer destination, as is his Falls Taproom in East Falls. Graaf figures that his neighbors - McMenamin's and Earth Bread + Brewery - have the suds thing locked up.

Graaf, working with fiancee Jessica Mellen, figures that CVGE's strong suit will be the cocktail list and food by Culinary Institute of America grad Trevor Elliott, an alum of The Wine Thief as well as such spots as Dettera, Jake's/Cooper's, and Zavino.

Graaf calls it "country cuisine" - house-made pickles, vegetarian items as well as "meat and potatoes," locally sourced where possible. See the meat of the menu, as it were, here. There also are some apps, soups and salads.

A framer by trade from Hazleton, Graaf installed a new bar and walls, working with barn wood and distressed and reclaimed steel, wood and glass.

Most notably, he punched a door out of one wall across from the bar. The alley next door is now a lovely patio with an elevated area that can accommodate bands.

Hours are 11 a.m. till "late," daily.