Friday, February 12, 2016

NoBL getting ready in Lansdowne

Steve Wagner, with chef Sam Jacobson, is opening an edgy BYOB up the street from Sycamore.

NoBL getting ready in Lansdowne

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Since its founding in 2009, Sycamore in Lansdowne has been one of the BYOB hits of the western suburbs. (LaBan review here.)

When founding chef/partner Meg Votta died a year after the opening of ovarian cancer, her hand-picked successor, Sam Jacobson, stepped in. The kitchen never lost a step.

Now Jacobson and Sycamore owner Steve Wagner are going up the street for a stylish Mediterranean, also a BYOB because Lansdowne is dry.

NoBL - as in "North of Baltimore Avenue" - is pegged for a "June" opening at 24 N. Lansdowne Ave., part of a mini-revitalization of the town. (See Argana Moroccan Cuisine, which opened recently down the block.)

Whereas Sycamore is a more traditional restaurant, the British-born Jacobson will do a glorious Mediterranean menu of small plates and pizzas. Peeking at a preview menu, I see such ambitious-for-Delco dishes as Duck Leg Braised in French Lentils with Thyme; Pappardelle with Chicken Livers, Braised Greens & Balsamic; Grilled Beef Tongue Agrodolce; and Fontina-Stuffed Turkey Meatballs, Porcini Bechamel.

Atmosphere - taking advantage of the 20-foot ceilings of the former hardware store - is warm and sexy, though I stopped during the day.  Among the seating options are a chef's counter with high chairs; dining tables encased in a wood-and-glass frame; and a private table in the back set against a twinkly-lighted back wall.

Staff Writer
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About this blog
Michael Klein, the editor/producer of philly.com/Food, writes about the local restaurant scene in his Inquirer column "Table Talk." Have a question? Email it! See his Inquirer work here.

Michael Klein Staff Writer
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