Hearthside, featuring a wood-fired grill, coming to Collingswood

At construction site of Hearthside in Collingswood are (from left) co-chef Aaron Gottesman, manager Delise Barron, and owners Lindsay Piperno and co-chef Dominic Piperno.

Dominic and Lindsay Piperno have not only come up with a name for the fine-dining restaurant they're building from the ground up in Collingswood. They also have a management team in place.

Hearthside, playing off the cozy environs and the wood-fired cooking from the kitchen, is expected to open in July at Haddon and Frazer Avenues, across from the borough's library. It will join the town's restaurant row, whose roster is more heavily packed with Italian BYOBS, including L'Oceano, Kitchen Consigliere, and Nunzio.

The project will reunite several former colleagues. While working at Vernick in Center City, Dominic Piperno befriended Aaron Gottesman, whose resume also includes The Fat Ham and Sbraga.

Piperno and Gottesman will be co-chefs at Hearthside. "We're two like minds," Piperno said.

Delise Barron, who grew up in Haddon Heights and worked with the chefs at Vernick, will run the dining room with  Lindsay Piperno, with whom she worked at the ChopHouse and Treno.

The Pipernos, who live in Collingswood (he grew up in Cherry Hill, she in Merchantville), thinks the town is ready for their BYOB. "This is an incredible opportunity to fill a void," Dominic Piperno said, pointing out that he expects to draw local customers that think nothing of driving into Philadelphia. By the same token, customers and staff from Philadelphia can hop on the PATCO train, whose Collingswood station is less than three blocks away..

Hearthside will seat about 45 people in the dining room, 4 at the counter, 10 at a communal table located off the open kitchen, plus more outdoors. It will have full-length windows along the front and side to create what Lindsay Piperno called "an open, city kind of feel - rustic yet romantic," with fresh flowers and candles, iron shelving, and whitewashed brick.

Dominic Piperno, a graduate of the French Culinary Institute, previously worked for chef Joey Baldino at the critically acclaimed Zeppoli, also in Collingswood. 

Hearthside is one of two sophisticated restaurants on the way to Camden County. Food-industry veteran Stu Wanikur hopes to open The Farmhouse in May at the Cherry Hill farmhouse that was home to La Campagne for decades.

 

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Hearthside

801 Haddon Ave., Collingswood; 856-240-1164, https://www.hearthsidebyob.com/.

Chef Dominic and Lindsay Piperno's stylish wood-fired American BYOB is blazing away at next-level sophistication for Collingswood, with a moody corner space built from scratch across from the local library, and a wide-ranging modern menu that tastes like a transplanted Center City kitchen. The parallels in style and format to Vernick, where Piperno (also ex-Zeppoli) met co-chef Aaron Gottesman (Fat Ham) are obvious in a good way, from artful crudos and inventive seasonal pastas, to large format sharing entrees (what a porterhouse!) blessed by the heat of the flames.

MENU HIGHLIGHTS

Tuna tartare; cobia crudo; beef carpaccio; mussels in coconut curry; gulf prawns; wood-roasted carrots; smoked celery root agnolotti; radiatori with wild boar ragù; fusilli with fennel sausage; scallops with chanterelles; dry-aged porterhouse for two; whole fish for two; roasted maitake mushrooms; carrot cake; apple fritter; semifreddo.

DRINKS

BYOB. Local wine aficionados have been busting out their best bottles for dinner here. At both of my meals, some full-bodied reds from Paso Robles (try Justin's Justification cab franc-merlot blend) stood up and complimented the char-kissed plates.

WEEKEND NOISE

The room can hit a lively 84 decibels, but extensive soundproofing on the ceiling behind the rafters tames the buzz to a level that is still mangeable. (Ideal is 75 decibels or less.)

IF YOU GO

Dinner Monday through Saturday, 5-10 p.m. Closed Sunday.

Wheelchair accessible.

Street parking only. Two handicap spots are available for guests directly behind the building, accessed off Frazer Avenue.