Marty Hamann was only the second exec chef that the Four Seasons Philadelphia ever had, after Jean-Marie Lacroix.
When Hamann announced his resignation in fall 2008 to go to the Union League, foodies grumbled that they'd be shut out of his cooking because the Union League is private.
Life went on, and the Fountain and Swann are as good as ever under chef Rafael Gonzalez and his team.
Those who miss Hamann -- who as a onetime Philadelphia Bulletin truck dispatcher from Delaware County is one of the earthiest fine-dining chefs you'll ever meet -- can get a little taste on July 17.
Philadelphia Hospitality and the Union League of Philadelphia will offer a luncheon and tour of the historic building and its posh dining facilities, which the Union League named after him and the club's year of founding: 1862 by Martin Hamann.
It's $55 a head. Reservations: 215-790-9901, Ext. 21.