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Capofitto: Pizza and gelato from Capogiro in Old City

Emboldened by her kitchen science experiment gone wild, Stephanie and John Reitano decided to open a pizzeria.

Back in 2001, John and Stephanie Reitano vacationed in Italy.

The experience in Capri was an eye-opener. Not so much for John, a psychiatrist who was born outside of Venice, but for Stephanie, stay-at-home mother of three. On her first day, she discovered gelato - that cold mystery that's lower in fat than ice cream but creamier.

Back in the States, she threw herself into learning the craft. She never cut corners: Milk came from an Amish family's herd of grass-fed cows. Produce from organic farmers. Imported nuts. If there's something she wanted - like candied fruits - she made it herself. "John taught me to love food," Stephanie said. "I learned a lot about the Italian notion of locality."

Behold, Capogiro, whose first shop opened at 13th and Sansom Streets in December 2003, with Stephanie making gelato daily in the basement. The name roughly means "swooning" or "dizziness."

The gelato - now made at the couple's own dairy - is a national hit, beyond the mini-chain of shops in Midtown Village, Rittenhouse, University City and Passyunk Square; it's also offered on restaurant menus.

All the while, Stephanie baked pizzas at home. Emboldened by her kitchen science experiment gone wild, the Reitanos decided to go pro and open a pizzeria.

By the middle of September, the Reitanos hope to let the public in on Capofitto - a gelateria, cafe and bar in the front, with a pizzeria and dining room in the back - at 233 Chestnut St. in Old City. Tim Shabaan, who owns the building, designed the restaurant, a former paper company dating from the 19th century.

Centerpiece of Capofitto - whose name means "headstrong" - is a hand-built, wood-burning oven in the rear. It was built on-site in 10 days by three men from Naples,who arrived with 23,000 pounds of handmade bricks from Santa Maria, pressed bricks from Salerno, "Biscotto" baking floor from Sorrento and "bags and bags of volcanic sand" from Vesuvius, Stephanie Reitano said.

"She weighs a bit more than a small elephant," she said. "She reaches temperatures of 900 degrees and can cook a pizza perfectly in as little as 60 seconds."

Stephanie has been working full days over the last week - seasoning and learning the oven and experimenting with various tomatoes, flour and cheese. "We're paying attention to every detail," she said. "No shortcuts."

Menu will include

Salads - Mista (local greens, crispy onions, cucumbers, tomatoes), Capra (arugula, local chevre, almonds and pancetta) and Pinoli (fennel, orange & toasted pinoli, ricotta salata salad)

Fried - Crocche di Patate (potato and provola), Melanzane (eggplant "meatballs"), Arancini Gialle (risotto, pecorino, fontina, saffron) and Arancini Rossi (risotto, pecorino, short rib, tomato, peas)

Apps - Polpette (local short rib and pork meatballs, Gardiniera (house-made Italian style picked vegetables) and Sticky Nuts (sweet, but salty nuts)

Pizzas

Marinara: San Marzano Tomatoes DOP, Local Oregano, Local Garlic and Sicilian Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Basil

Margherita: San Marzano Tomatoes DOP, Fior di Latte Mozzarella DOP , Sicilian Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Pecorino Romano, Basil

Margherita con Piennolo: Piennolo Tomatoes from Vesuvius DOP, Fior di Latte Mozzarella DOP, Sicilian Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Basil.

Margherita con Bufala: San Marzano Tomatoes DOP, Bufala Mozzarella DOP, Sicilian Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Basil.

Prosciutto di Parma: San Marzano Tomatoes DOP, Fior di Latte Mozzarella DOP, Prosciutto di Parma DOP, Arugula, Sicilian Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Lardo e Cipolla: Fior di Latte Mozzarella DOP, Lardo di Colonnata, Red Onion, Sharp Stinky Cheese, Sicilian Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Basil

Rapini e Salsiccia: Fior di Latte Mozzarella DOP, Housemade Fennel Sausage, Rapini, Sicilian Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Pecorino Romano, Basil

Romana: Piennolo Tomatoes from Vesuvius DOP, Fior di Latte Mozzarella DOP, Gaeta Olives, Sicilian Capers, Sicilian Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Basil

Tartufella: San Marzano Tomatoes DOP, Local Mushrooms, Housemade Sausage, Truffle Oil, Pecorino Romano, Basil

Genovese: San Marzano Tomatoes DOP, Eggplant, Stracciatella DOP, Pesto, Sicilian Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Basil

Diavola: San Marzano Tomatoes DOP, Fior di Latte Mozzarella, Spicy Calabrese Salami, Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Oregano

Ripieno: Ripieno Rosso, Ricotta Romana, Provola , Salame Napoletano, San Marzano Tomatoes DOP, Pecorino Romano, Sicilian Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Ripieno Blanco: Ricotta Romana, Provola, Chicory, Capers, Olives, Pecorino Romano, Extra Virgin Olive Oil.

Wines will be predominantly Southern Italian (mostly organics). Italian beers will be on tap.

Desserts include Capogiro gelato, roasted fruit with gelato, tiramisu, cheesecake and affogato made with gelato and La Colombe coffee

The Philadelphia area's pizza scene - already sizzling thanks to newcomers such as Pizzeria Vetri, Stella, DiMeo, Vecchia, Zavino, Bufad, Nomad, Pitruco and Beddia - is heating up yet again.

Besides Capofitto, there will be a second Vecchia coming to North Wayne Avenue in beautiful downtown Wayne - directly across from Arde, a second restaurant from the DiMeos; both are targeting late September. Brigantessa - a Southern Italian on East Passyunk from Le Virtu's Joe Cicala, Cathy Lee and Francis Cratil Cretarola - is looking at October.