Andy's: Fishtown gets Korean fried chicken

Two pieces of honey garlic KFC from Andy's Chicken, 2001 Memphis St.

It was only a matter of time that Fishtown would become home to a Korean fried chicken shop.

The task fell not to some hipster Anglo chef tired of the gastropub scene but to a Korean American entrepreneur.

That would be Andy Choi, and the shop - which opened Aug. 9 in a former pizzeria at the corner of Memphis and Norris Streets - is simply Andy's Chicken (2001 Memphis St., 215-291-0700).

In a snug 300 square feet, Choi and crew turn out crispy, nongreasy, twice-fried chicken ($9.19 for a half, $18 whole - discounted at lunch). Breading is a bit thicker and more substantial than you'll find at, say, Cafe Soho. He also includes breasts, while many other KFC shops stick to legs, drums and thighs. Sauce lineup is sweet chili, hot and spicy, sweet BBQ, cajun, soy, and honey garlic (which Choi is especially proud of).

Choi says he buys his chicken fresh daily.

The menu also includes homespun Korean rice specialties - bulgogi, spicy pork, and kimchi and pork fried rice ($7.99) - and two soups, all of which Choi makes to order on his little two-burner stove.

Andy's is a more basic version of Chimac, a chicken-focused sit-down restaurant on Fifth Street near Olney Avenue in Olney that Choi owns with his buddy Beo.

There is no seating here; it's takeout or delivery only.

Hours are noon to 11 p.m. Monday to Saturday, 1 to 9 p.m. Sunday.

Two pieces of advice: Bring a bib and a drop cloth for the car seat, and get there early because he's been selling out by 7 p.m.