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A taste of Pizzeria Vetri

The shop opens Friday, but it's doing mock service. With that comes pizza, salads and desserts.

Pizzeria Vetri - the pizza joint from Marc Vetri and crew at 1939 Callowhill St. (215-600-2629) - is gearing up for its opening at 11 a.m. Friday, Sept. 6.

Meanwhile, friends of the house are putting the pizzaioli and servers through their paces. The shop is a tight fit with high ceilings and a rock-and-roll soundtrack; this is not a romantic date spot or location to share a secret.

The counter seats about eight, while two communal tables seat about a dozen. Six seats along the counter offer a view of the city. The gas-assisted, wood-fired Renato oven turns out a pie in less than two minutes. (My impression: Among my favorite in the city. If you like Andorra's Pizzeria DiMeo's and/or Society HIll's Pizzeria Stella, you should agree. Delicious, moderately sturdy outer crust with a light crispy "shell." The calzone, with its crispy outer layer containing the molten deliciousness of ricotta and prosciutto, is positively a work of art.)

They'll offer a few salads, traditional Neapolitan pizzas, the rectangular Roman-style pizza al taglio (by the slice), the roll-ups called rotolo, and a calzone, plus a few desserts (including soft-serve ice cream), four beers on tap and two wines on tap.

Here's the menu.