Saturday, May 25, 2013
Saturday, May 25, 2013

Archive: August, 2012

POSTED: Monday, August 20, 2012, 2:52 PM
Filed Under: TableTalk

Signed nearly three months ago, the deal bringing the luxe Ocean Prime to the corner of 15th and Sansom Streets was press-released today.

The "modern American supper club" - which I hear will open in March 2013 after a $5 million build-out - will be number 10 in the collection of Ohio-based restaurateur Cameron Mitchell.

It will replace Roy's.

POSTED: Sunday, August 19, 2012, 9:58 PM
Filed Under: TableTalk

Rittenhouse Square real-estate agent Anne Frey is aiming for Tuesday, Aug. 21 for the unveiling of 1 Tippling Pl, a cleverly named cocktail bar that has a certain Mad Men appeal. It's at 2006 Chestnut St., which last was Jolly's piano bar.

It's done up in a style that would seem straight out of a mid-20th-century parlor - antique paintings, table lamps, comfy seating - next to a bar. Frey said focus is on fairly priced craft cocktails, "both classic and some inventions of our own. We are barrel-aging three different cocktails in house and will also have a selection of seasonal punches. Fish House punch (from the original recipe from State in Schuylkill) will always be available. Also a selection of craft beers and wines by the glass are available."

Frey's general manager David Tang previously managed the Ranstead Room, behind El Rey across the street. He trained with Sasha Petraskie (Milk & Honey).

POSTED: Sunday, August 19, 2012, 9:43 PM
Filed Under: TableTalk

Beau Monde co-owner Jim Caiola on Sunday labeled "untrue" an allegation that family ties - and not merit - cinched the deal that put him and partner David Salama in line to run Tavern on the Green, the Central Park landmark owned by the City of New York.

The New York Post on Saturday reported that Caiola's sister is married to Kevin Sheekey, a former deputy mayor of New York. City officials told the Post that the entire process was handled by the book and that Caiola had no reason to divulge his family ties. On Sunday, The Post also reported that New York's comptroller was investigating.

"He and I had zero contact about this," Caiola told me Sunday. "We don't talk about my business or his business, anyway." Once the deal became close, Caiola said, "we had a feeling [the connection] would come up."

POSTED: Sunday, August 19, 2012, 2:40 PM
Filed Under: TableTalk

Jose Garces is on the move again.

As part of a major redo of Terminal F at Philadelphia International Airport, he will consult on - but not operate - a tavern called Local.

The Inquirer's Linda Loyd reported in Sunday's editions that construction is underway to enlarge the center "hub" that connects three concourses, doubling the number of restaurants and retail shops, and adding passenger seating. The eateries and concessions - including spots by La Colombe and a burger concept - will open in phases, some before Thanksgiving, and more next July 1, including Local. All concessions will be open by September 2013.

POSTED: Saturday, August 18, 2012, 12:28 AM
The interior of Will, 1911 E. Passyunk Ave. MICHAEL KLEIN / Philly.com

Christopher Kearse is what you'd call a chef's chef.

The Levittown native worked at some of the best restaurants in America, like Charlie Trotter’s, Tru, Alinea, and French Laundry, after his 2005 graduation from the Restaurant School. He returned to the Philadelphia area as a sous chef at Lacroix and moved on to Blackfish in Conshohocken, followed by 2½ years as the chef de cuisine at Pumpkin. (OK, so he's among the most traveled, too.)

Hard worker, meticulous, cool under fire... Kearse's name is not yet widely known outside the restaurant world. But ask young chefs like his Restaurant School classmate Jason Cichonski, Chip Roman, Jessie Prawlucki, Lee Styer, and Matt Levin who would be in their top-five around town, and all will drop his name.

On Aug. 24, Kearse opens Will, his debut as a chef-owner, at 1911 E. Passyunk Ave. (215-271-7683), next to Tre Scalini.

Kearse, 28, describes the culinary style at the minimalist, 30-seat BYOB as French with "new and modern techniques." Entree prices are in the $20s.

Fellow Pumpkin alumnus Chris Perotti is general manager. They will serve dinner Tuesdays through Sundays from 5:30 to 10 p.m., and brunch on Sundays from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Every Sunday, Kearse will offer a four-course seasonal prix-fixe menu, and on Tuesdays, he'll showcase one ingredient. They're planning a late-night menu for people in the restaurant business.

Drew Lazor, while at City Paper, wrote a comprehensive piece on Kearse and his amazing recovery from a 2000 auto accident. A passenger in a friend's car that was hit by a drunken driver, Kearse suffered massive damage to his face, requiring doctors to perform a jaw reconstruction. The article is here.

POSTED: Friday, August 17, 2012, 11:46 PM
Filed Under: TableTalk

It's old home week near the crossroads of Routes 73 and 313 in Central Montgomery County.

The Asian BYOB FuziOn has closed, and in its place, we now have Gracie's Cafe (2960 Skippack Pike, Worcester, 610-584-6958), a light and airy mix of Asian and Mediterranean cuisines. It's open for dinner only daily.

A bunch of veteran restaurateurs are at work at Gracie's. Buu Ly, who created FuziOn and later sold it, is the owner. Over the years, Ly had a piece of Ly Michael's in Overbrook Park and Chinatown and now also has Tazia in Chinatown. To manage, he's brought in Ian Mark, a former owner of the downtown destinations Cibo and Ciboulette and the Shore spot Red Chopstix, and Billy Wong, whose past includes eponymous restaurants in Old City and Warminster, Plate in Northern Liberties, as well as Tang's on South Street and Mustard Greens in Queen Village. (Wong is back after being "away." You may remember the story.)

POSTED: Friday, August 17, 2012, 11:11 AM

The empty spot on the 18th Street side of 1801 Market St., last occupied by Pikkles Plus, is getting a new tenant.

Devon & Blakely - an upmarket sandwich/salad spot with a strong delivery business at its locations in Washington, D.C., and New York City, just signed on. This will be the first Philly location.

It's due to open by the end of the year.

POSTED: Friday, August 17, 2012, 10:48 AM
Filed Under: TableTalk
At Tashan (from left), owner Munish Narula, Harrison Ford, Gary Oldman, and chef Sylva Senat. (Photo: TYLER WARD)

Tashan, the modern Indian restaurant at 777 S. Broad St., had a visit Thursday night by actors Harrison Ford and Gary Oldman, who are filming the thriller Paranoia hereabouts. (The two play adversaries again. See below from Air Force One.)

Chef Sylva Senat whipped them up a gigundo tasting menu: gol gappa, malai kofta lollipops, spinach salad, grilled octopus, shrimp, vegetables Sariya, bread basket, kobe beef kebab, aloo tikki, quail, and tandoori lobster with corn curry. Plus dessert.


POSTED: Thursday, August 16, 2012, 4:12 PM
Filed Under: TableTalk
The stand at Reading Terminal Market formerly occupied by Delilah's.

Reading Terminal Market is getting close to finding a new operator for the stand previously occupied by Delilah's, the longtime soul fooder that shut down in mid-March amid bankruptcy proceedings.

The concept will be soul food again.

Market general manager Paul Steinke confirmed that four potential operators are in the running, and that all will audition for the market board later this month. He declined to identify them.

POSTED: Thursday, August 16, 2012, 3:48 PM
Filed Under: TableTalk

Jim Caiola and David Salama, owners of the Queen Village creperie Beau Monde, today were named the future operators of the Central Park landmark Tavern on the Green. They will maintain Beau Monde, their rep says.

The city of New York will award the pair a 20-year license term to run an informal restaurant and outdoor cafe; it's just west of the Sheep Meadow near 67th Street.

They've hired Caiola's Johnson & Wales classmate Katy Sparks as executive chef. She was a 1998 “Top Ten Best New Chef in America” by Food & Wine Magazine and her experience includes the Quilted Giraffe, Mesa Grill, Bolo, and Quilty’s,

About this blog
Michael Klein, the editor/producer of philly.com/Food, writes about the local restaurant scene in his Inquirer column "Table Talk." Have a question? Email it! See his Inquirer work here. Reach Michael at mklein@philly.com.

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