Monday, July 6, 2015

Dock Street debuts its own mezcal

Get ready for Vicio mezcal. The smoky agave liquor is the first product from new Dock Street Spirits, a partnership between Certo, brewery second-in-command Marilyn Candeloro, and French linguist Regina Pfohl. The first official batch landed in Philadelphia just over a week ago.

Dock Street debuts its own mezcal

0 comments
Dock Street Brewing´s Rosemarie Certo (left), Regina Pfohl, and Marilyn Candeloro with the Mexican-bottled Vicio brand.
Dock Street Brewing's Rosemarie Certo (left), Regina Pfohl, and Marilyn Candeloro with the Mexican-bottled Vicio brand. DANYA HENNINGER

Rosemarie Certo got a jump on the craft beer revolution when she opened Dock Street Brewing Co. in 1985, making it one of the country’s first microbreweries. Now she’s diving into another fledgling industry: craft spirits.

Get ready for Vicio mezcal. The smoky agave liquor is the first product from new Dock Street Spirits, a partnership between Certo, brewery second-in-command Marilyn Candeloro, and French linguist Regina Pfohl. The first official batch landed in Philadelphia just over a week ago.

Vicio has been in the works for over two years. Certo and Candeloro made at least five trips to Oaxaca, Mexico, tasting different mezcals and searching for the right mezcalero. They found a family that had the technique down well from making it for decades for their village, and - through a translator - commissioned a custom batch, specifying flavor and texture characteristics for the final product.

Tried at the Vetri Great Chefs Event, the result is an unequivocal success. Smooth and with a floral nose, the spirit is best sipped neat. A first it tastes very similar to a fine blanco tequila, that other agave spirit, but after a velvety swallow, you feel its signature smoky notes bloom. This is a joven mezcal, meaning “young” or unaged, so it’s not overpowering. It’s the kind of booze that can sneak up on you, because it’s very easy to drink.

More coverage
 
How clean is your favorite restaurant? Inspection reports
 
Philadelphia Distilling moving next to Fillmore to Fishtown
 
What's new in restaurants this summer
 
Philly restaurant's $150 meal, by the numbers
That’s no mistake - in fact, it’s part of the brand image. Vicio means “vice” in Spanish, and the tagline for the spirit is “A Voluptuous Habit.” A nephew of the mezcalero drew the logo, which is a wild-but-cute-looking axolotl, an ancient, salamander-like amphibian also known as a “Mexican walking fish.”

Though the mezcal must be produced in Oaxaca (by appellation of origin law and because that’s where those with the specialized knowledge are), Dock Street Spirits has other liquors planned. A lease for a distillery in Philadelphia is currently in the works.

Vicio now available via SLO (special liquor order) via the state Fine Wine & Good Spirits stores. Give it a try at the first official public tasting event on Wednesday, June 25, from 5 to 8 p.m. at Twenty Manning Grill.

0 comments
We encourage respectful comments but reserve the right to delete anything that doesn't contribute to an engaging dialogue.
Help us moderate this thread by flagging comments that violate our guidelines.

Comment policy:

Philly.com comments are intended to be civil, friendly conversations. Please treat other participants with respect and in a way that you would want to be treated. You are responsible for what you say. And please, stay on topic. If you see an objectionable post, please report it to us using the "Report Abuse" option.

Please note that comments are monitored by Philly.com staff. We reserve the right at all times to remove any information or materials that are unlawful, threatening, abusive, libelous, defamatory, obscene, vulgar, pornographic, profane, indecent or otherwise objectionable. Personal attacks, especially on other participants, are not permitted. We reserve the right to permanently block any user who violates these terms and conditions.

Additionally comments that are long, have multiple paragraph breaks, include code, or include hyperlinks may not be posted.

Read 0 comments
 
comments powered by Disqus
About this blog
Food news, tips and other food-centric dispatches!

Tim Reardon philly.com
Nick Vadala Philly.com
Drew Lazor Philly.com
Michael Klein Philly.com
Latest Videos:
Also on Philly.com
letter icon Newsletter