Saturday, November 28, 2015

Pizzeria Beddia ready to go

Pizza in Fishtown.

Pizzeria Beddia ready to go


Joe Beddia is saying "tonight" (Wednesday, March 20) for Pizzeria Beddia, his Fishtown pizzeria (115 E. Girard Ave., replacing a deli at Girard and Shackamaxon). 

Beddia, 35, who calls himself a pizza nerd, picked up pie knowledge at Tria, Osteria, South Philadelphia Tap Room, and Madison, Wis.'s Pizza Brutta before he landed at Zavino for two years.

He's using a brick-lined Montague deck oven to pop out the 16-inchers - none of that Neapolitan pizza.

It's as close to New York-style as I've seen around here. It has a crispy, almost flaky outer ring, and a sturdy thin inner crust that doesn't flop into a drippiness when you hold it.

This is American pizza, if you will. I tried the plain, which has two different whole-milk mozzarellas (fresh and low-moisture from Lioni Latticini in Union, N.J.), a sauce made from Jersey tomatoes, a grating of domestic Gouda from Hidden Hills Dairy, and a splash of extra-virgin California olive oil. Flour is organic from Central Milling.

A plain is $18 a pie. He'll grind his own sausage ($4 additional), and other toppings are pickled chiles ($2), crimini mushrooms ($3), and salame ($4).

No slices. No real seating. Nothing else on the menu.

Just pizza.

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Michael Klein
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