Craig LaBan

I joined the Inquirer as its restaurant critic in 1998, after a stint covering the food beat for the Times-Picayune in New Orleans. Having eaten about 500 restaurant meals a year here ever since, I never cease to be amazed by the diversity and sophistication of Philadelphia's kitchens. To travel from its many authentic ethnic neighborhoods to the gastronomic temples of Walnut Street to its beery gastropubs, cozy BYOBs and multitude of greasy-but-great steak joints, is to know this town delivers satisfaction at every level of the food chain. Including online dish.

Live chat: Join Craig at 2 p.m. on Tuesdays in the Inquirer chatroom. See latest chats by Craig and others.

Book: The Philadelphia Inquirer Restaurant Guide is available through our online store.

Email Craig at claban@phillynews.com

Marigold's corn-bread pedestal topped with collards, Virginia ham and a sunny-side-up egg reflects chef Erin O'Sheas culinary roots in Texas and Virginia.

Marigold Kitchen

By Craig LaBan, Inquirer Restaurant Critic

Posted 05/14/2008

Erin O'Shea could have been the "Taboon Mistress," queen of the flatbread hearth that is the centerpiece at Zahav, the splashy new Old City Israeli from Michael Solomonov and Steven Cook.

Drink

Posted 05/16/2008

Girard is one of my current go-to Napa wineries for big spicy reds like their high-end petite sirah. But Girard also happens to make a lip-smackingly affordable summer white in this 2006 sauvignon blanc.

Jasper 05/07/2008: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic

Jasper could be a poster BYOB for the DIY era. Owner Nick DiFonzo did all the renovations himself, spending a year and a half converting a Victorian home in downtown Downingtown into a 45-seat restaurant. He trained the servers, mostly high school and college students, to his own specs. He personally sources all his ingredients on regular trips to the Regional Produce Market in South Philadelphia. And he is the only chef in the kitchen. Post a comment
Drink 05/09/2008: I'm losing interest in all those pretty West Coast pinot noirs with no personality, many of which are thinner than the mediocre merlots they aim to replace. So it's no wonder I've rekindled an interest in bottles from pinot noir's homeland - Burgundy - that still have their earthy punch.
Misso 05/02/2008: In the wave of new sushi spots, this BYOB bobs to the top.

By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic

It's been hailing neon fish roe and raining spicy mayo on the Philadelphia dining scene lately. And the storm of stylish new sushi counters bringing it on has given the city a fresh contender for "most overdone" concept. (Italian BYOBs are so 2007.)
Drink 05/02/2008: I'm a fan of great sake, but even high-quality junmai brews can be a hard sell to my frequently skeptical dinner companions, who often find it too austere and too subtle.
Drink 04/25/2008: Now that the bitterest hops of the business divorce between Yards Brewery's former partners have been settled, it's time to celebrate a birth: the Philadelphia Brewing Co.
The Ugly American 04/25/2008: Don't read too much into the name, as this South Philly gastropub is a fun place with fun food and prices that are pretty . . . reasonable.

By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic

There's sure to be a beautiful story behind a place called The Ugly American, the new South Philly gastropub that revels in dishes like "the garbage plate" and upscale hot pockets.
Dumpling heaven in Chinatown 04/18/2008: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic

Mere mention of a "soup dumpling" sighting is often enough to make a serious adventure diner twitch, activating a primal tracker instinct more commonly reserved for tasks like pursuing the ivory-billed woodpecker.
Drink 04/18/2008: Get the oil paints and canvas ready, because absinthe is back. The legendary "green fairy," a cloudy swirl of opalescent anise liqueur, was the favored elixir of Belle Epoque poets and artistes. It was also blamed for insanity and hallucinations - a myth that has since been dismissed.
Drink 04/11/2008: What happens when a tipsy Walloon gnome goes wandering in a field of American hops? Houblon is what happens, a charmingly good, genre-bending IPA Tripel from the makers of La Chouffe.
Javier 04/11/2008: Looks aren't everything, as the new upscale BYO in Haddonfield proves. Dining in comfort doesn't make up for mediocre food and service.

By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic

To eat at Javier, or not to eat at Javier? That is the question I'm sure more than a few South Jersey diners have pondered in the last few months as they peered into the gold-and-chocolate plushness of this upscale new BYO in the heart of Haddonfield.

MORE STORIES

Drink 04/04/2008
An update of Indian cuisine, faithful to authentic flavors 04/04/2008: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Drink 03/28/2008
This versatile kitchen's flavors sing 03/28/2008: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Le Virtù 03/19/2008: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Drink 03/21/2008
Drink 03/14/2008
Drink 03/07/2008
Azie 03/07/2008: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Drink 02/29/2008
Cafe Apamate 02/29/2008: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Drink 02/22/2008
Astral Plane Millenium 02/22/2008: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Supper's on - really on 02/15/2008: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Las Bugambilias 02/08/2008: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Ted's on Main 02/01/2008: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Max & David's 01/25/2008: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
St. Stephen's Green 01/18/2008: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Cochon 01/11/2008: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Blue Pear Bistro 01/02/2008: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
The Belgian Cafe 12/21/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Shundeez 12/14/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
City Grange 12/06/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Silk City Diner 11/22/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Bluefin 11/16/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Honey 11/09/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Coquette 11/02/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Memdee's 10/26/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Ida Mae's 10/19/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
From Django to Kennett Square 10/11/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Salento 10/05/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Chabaa Thai Bistro 09/28/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Teresa's Next Door 09/20/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
A welcome homecoming 09/14/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
707 Restaurant & Bar 09/06/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Modo Mio 08/31/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Cosimo 08/19/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Rylei 08/10/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Did its move spoil Fuji? Not a bit 08/03/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Tiffin 07/27/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Legal Sea Foods 07/20/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Shore Dining | At the stove, at the table, family flavor 07/13/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Survivor: Shore Dining 07/06/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Craig LaBan | Onasis 06/29/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Endless small wonders 06/22/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Craig LaBan | Zot 06/01/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Review: Miran 05/25/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Craig LaBan | Osteria 05/18/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Casino buffet or Buddakan? 05/18/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Kitchen 233 02/04/2008: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Copper Bistro 01/21/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic

Philly.com Promotions

Apparel
Books
Movies
Page Reprints
Photos

Ticket Offers

COMCAST TIX

Concert: Sheryl Crow
Concert: Celine Dion
Concert: Eric Clapton
Concert: Billy Crystal

OTHER OFFERS

Concert: REM
Concert: Erykah Badu
Concert: Death Cab for Cutie
Concert: Jimmy Buffett