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Putting local wines to the taste test
Big reds, bright whites, and a sweet late-harvest sipper are among 15 top varieties from area producers.
Sommelier Marika Vida-Arnold says she would not have put a chardonnay from Bucks County's Crossing Vineyards on the Ritz-Carlton's wine list if it wasn't good.
"But the second [customers] hear it's from Pennsylvania," she said, "they don't like it anymore. We're real snobs when it comes to local wineries."
After tasting about 55 wines from eight local wineries, I understand the skepticism. But I've also found a number of bottles worth considering, wines that show real craft and complexity (if not necessarily great value), and a growing understanding of the local terroir.
Here are my 15 favorites. With the exceptions of Chaddsford and Crossing Vineyards, which have limited State Store distribution, most are available only at the wineries:
Pennsylvania
Va La
Barbera 2004, $27: A silky but complex red, with a dusting of cocoa and smoke, seamlessly woven deep red fruit, and a spicy tingle that pairs well with rustic foods.La Prima Donna 2006, $30: A flamboyant, showy white, with layers of aromatic grapes - viognier, malvasia, pinot grigio and tocai - that dance exotic on the palate.
Zafferano 2005, $30 (sold out): An unusually gutsy pinot grigio. It has a deep golden color, the smell of applesauce and ginger, and a tannic grip that sings with food.
Mahogany: Aging in $1,000 French barrels until March, this barbera-corvina-petit verdot blend should become Va La's premier red. No price has been set, but the early balance of plush dark berry fruit, blood-orange acidity, and a framework of rich oak has "cult wine" potential.
Paradocx Vineyard
White Wash, $35 for three liters: I wasn't knocked out by the higher-end bottles here, but this "Barn Chic" twist on box wine, with the equivalent of four bottles stuffed into a paint can, is a great value. The white is a lighthearted blend of chardonnay, pinot grigio and vidal blanc that has just the right off-dry kiss for a party.
Crossing Vineyards
Chardonnay 2006, $17: Bright and balanced, this chard wears just a hint of buttery oak to show its pear fruit and crisp acidity. Much more impressive than Crossing's reds.Viognier 2005, $28: Almost sold out from a hot year, this white bursts with exotic papaya fruits and butterscotch richness.
Late-Harvest Vidal Blanc 2006, $40 for 375 milliliters: An impressive estate-grown sweet wine, it tastes like rich apricot nectar tempered by long and elegant acidity.
Chaddsford
Naked Chardonnay 2006, $14.99: Crisp and fresh, this unoaked chardonnay has a spiraling Euro-brightness, and a very good price.Due Rossi 2005, $29.99: Dark jammy fruit is framed by a big earthy structure brushed with licorice and tobacco.
Chambourcin, Miller Estate 2005, $24.99: Plummy, bold and balanced, with a spice box of clove, this is the best (and only) chambourcin I've enjoyed.
Pinot Noir, Miller Estate 2005, $34.99: The only Pennsylvania pinot I've ever been able to swallow, it's pale in color but soars on the palate, with a pretty wild strawberry note that rings like a bell. Impressive, but too expensive.
New Jersey
Amalthea Cellars
Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2005, $49: It's no wonder this Atco wine won a blind tasting with wine professionals and amateurs. With a little air, it gushed blackberries, dark licorice, tobacco, peppercorns and a minty finish. Wow. From Atco? Our region's best cab, and there's hardly any left.Cabernet Franc Reserve 2003, $22: A classic franc perfumed with green bell peppers and earth, a little cedar and spice. A well-crafted medium-body red that has a coffee finish.
Sylvin Farms
Cabernet Franc 2004, $12.99: The best bottle from vinifera pioneer Frank Salek, this franc is dry and woody but balanced, with notes of peppers, spice, cedar and tobacco.
Pennsylvania:
Chester County:
Chaddsford Winery
632 Baltimore Pike
Chadds Ford, 19317
610-388-6221
www.chaddsford.com
Paradocx Vineyard Tasting Room
Shoppes of Longwood
879-B E. Baltimore Pike
Kennett Square, 19348
610-255-5684
http://www.paradocx.com/
Va La
8820 Gap Newport Pike (Rt. 41)
Avondale, 19311
610-268-2702
http://www.valavineyards.com/
Bucks County
Crossing Vineyards
1853 Wrightstown Rd.
Washington Crossing, 18977
215-493-6500
www.crossingvineyards.com
South Jersey:
Amalthea Cellars
209 Vineyard Rd.
Atco, 08004
856-768-8585
www.amaltheacellars.com
Bellview Winery
150 Atlantic St.
Landisville, 08326
856-697-7172
http://www.bellviewwinery.com/mainSite/public/main/home
Sylvin Farms
24 N. Vienna Ave.
Germania
609-969-1548
www.sylvinfarmswinery.com/
- Craig LaBan
