DOYLESTOWN - In the three centuries since the French-Irish Doyle (formerly D'Ouilli) family settled its land grant from William Penn, Doylestown has gone through a number of transformations.

George Washington and his colonials tromped through on their way to beat up on the British. It became the Bucks County seat soon afterward and had some hope of rivaling Philadelphia as a center of the action in these parts.

Instead, it built itself into a combination of a manufacturing and a farming center, with a prominent agricultural educational institution, now Delaware Valley College.

As the 1960s progressed and shopping malls started springing up all around it, Doylestown's Victorian downtown faded and proposals came to wipe out many of the buildings in hopes of modernizing. Perspicacious town fathers prevailed, though, and the historic nature of the town was preserved.

Now Doylestown, with its historic, artistic, agricultural, and culinary roots intact, is a perfect place for a day trip, or a weekend. Here are some suggestions on where to stop:

The Market by Shady Brook at Delaware Valley College

Del Val, as it is locally known, has long been one of the premier agricultural colleges in the country, though it now spreads itself out more into the liberal arts.

Recently, the college decided to market its wares to the public, while giving students a hands-on chance to see how the sales end of the farming business works.

"The college grows its own produce, makes it own honey, has its own dairy products, and we even sell its Angus beef and pork products," said Dave Fleming, the co-owner of Shady Brook Farm in Yardley, which manages the market for the college. Fleming works with classes at the college, which set up marketing plans, do design, and learn about the business of both growing the products and selling them.

"It's unique here," Fleming said. "We have our own eggs, chickens, turkeys. It really is second to none and it is all connected to a college, which has got to be unique."

The fall also brings hayrides and corn mazes, especially one in the shape of a ram, the college mascot, set in a big "DVC."

The market is at 2100 Lower State Rd. and is open 7 a.m.-7 p.m. Mondays through Saturdays, 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Sundays. Information: 215-230-7170, www.shadybrookfarm.com/DVC/index.htm

Smokin' Lil's

The latest in Lilly Salvatore's culinary empire in Doylestown and surrounding parts, Smokin' Lil's has brought down-home Southern barbecue to pristine Victorian central Bucks County. There is extra sauce on the table and Mexican Coke - with sugar instead of corn syrup - in the fridge.

There are some anomalies, like crab cakes and cheese fries (hmmm, maybe it's Southern as in South Philly), but the smoker out front does brisket and pulled pork, turkey breast, and "tickle me" ribs.

Mac and cheese makes the menu, as do sweet potato fries, corn bread, and even sweet potato vanilla bean casserole. Nothing is more than $19.95, and that is a whole rack of ribs.

Salvatore also has Lilly's Cafe America and Lilly's Gourmet just up Court Street and other restaurants in Newtown and Lambertville, N.J.

The restaurant at 9 W. Court St. is open 11 a.m.-7 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays, 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays, and closed Sunday. Information: 215-348-5170, www.lillysgourmet.com.