Restaurant Chat: The best whiskey/scotch selection in town

Good afternoon, my hungry friends, and welcome back to the Philly food chat that puts the sizzle on your cyber-griddle. It’s been a busy couple weeks since we last met. I did a two-day tour on jury duty last week – Ugh! Juror Number One! – which explains why I was radio silent last Tuesday. It wasn’t as bad as it could have been, especially because I got a chance during recess to explore some of the interesting lunchables around City Hall. A gourmet pbj at Café Loftus? Good express box sushi at Kami? How ‘bout an Afghan kabob downstairs? Another burger shot for the patty-smashers over at Five Guys (where the fries are better than the burgers)? Old favorites all. But I ended up somewhere else new worth mentioning. Of course, you’ll have to guess one of this week’s Crumb Tracker clues to figure that out. So here goes. Guess in order which three places I ate these dishes, and win a signed copy of my book: 1) “Tirolese” – a speck Panini with buffalo mozzarella and mushrooms; 2) financier w

....[crumb tracker continued] 2) financier with pistachio creme anglaise; 3) duck with mole. Ready, set, start crumbing!

Hi Craig--best restaurant reviewer in the East. Have you tried Teikoku in West Chester/Edgemont? I had a fantastic meal there recently.

Hi Steve (are you really Steve, or a family member in disguise, trying to boost my ego?) Either way, let's start with the friendly crowd. I have reviewed Teikoku, though several years ago. I liked it very much - great sushi, awesome kobe beef-on-a-hot rock app; gorgeously evocative room. But did have some mixed luck with the Thai-influenced cooked fusion fare, and the service was iffy. But it was a long time ago, and a lot has changed. The chef I reviewed there years ago now has his own restaurant in the Art Museum area, Umai Umai, which I'd like to get back to. The Teikoku owners, meanwhile, have opened a brand new place in Media, Azie, that I'm looking forward to hitting. Seems ambitiously trendy, but these folks have a good track record, so I'm hopeful.

I've recently been turned on to Indian Food. It doesn't look like there is a huge number of options in the city. Where do you go for some good Vindaloo?

Seth - Philly doesn't have as many Indian venues as I'd like, though it may be in the process of evolving before our eyes, with upscale new entries like Ben on the Parkway and Bindi, the new Indian fusion place from Marcie Turney (from Lolita). But no matter what you pay, right now no one can touch the flavors coming from Tiffin, the all-flavor-no-ambiance Girard Ave. joint that has taken ethnic delivery to a new level. I don't recall their vindaloo, in particular, being notable, but everything they cook is fabulous. In fact, don't miss the cauliflower entree special, gobhi mussallam, they're running this January. It's made with a melon seed sauce and it's creamy and gingery and electric. Just had it last weekend (wasn't working, so I even paid for it myself!) and I can still taste it.

Craig, do you know of any places in the city with an extensive single malt scotch collection, for a discering connesuere

Hi Steven - I'm a huge whiskey drinker, which means I also love whisky (that's how the Scotch spell it!) The old Dickens Inn used to be Valhalla for Scotch, but that collection has withered a bit in past years under the new Dark Horse management. Your other best bets in town might be Mahogany, the cigar bar above Holt's, the Ritz-Carlton's bar, Prime Rib, the Royal Tavern (pretty good, for a gastropub), Twenty21, and McMenamin's in Mt. Airy. Apparently, the Drafting Room in Exton has an amazing collection. Also, if you like rye, Southwark in Queen Village has devoted itself to what may be the biggest collection in the mid-atlantic, with 21 different labels to choose from.

Hi Craig-I recently reread your exquisitely written article about the late great Coe DuPuis. Have you tried any whiskey since then that even comes close?

Speaking of spirits, may the old King of Moonshine rest in peace! Thank you for reminding me of Coe, the 96-year-old Cajun moonshiner I profiled several years ago before he passed away. Coe was an amazing man, a moonshiner who crafted a bourbon-like drink (but spiked with wild cherry bounce) that would remind you more of a great armagnac than white lightning. That kind of thing, especially paired with some porchfront parties accompanied by slide guitarist Sonny Landreth, is impossible to match. That said, I have had some pretty good American whiskies since then, especially on a trip last spring to Kentucky. Among the highlights was a cask strength Weller (which I saw on limited sale in the state stores for $50-something), a 20-year-old Pappy Van Winkle, an 18-year-old Elijah Craig. Best value? The 10-year-old Eagle Rare. Of course, I have about a quarter bottle left of Coe's magic elixir. I'm saving it jealously for something special, because once it's gone, it's gone forever.

Can you tell e the name of the bakery in Manayunk that makes great tomato Pies. I know you have to order them before making the purchasing it. They only make somany.

John, I believe you're thinking of Marchiano’s Italian Bakery.

my favorite new restaurant last year was M, which has sinced closed down...has the chef opened anything new since the closure?

Greg - M closed down last year as a restaurant, as the owners decided to go for private banquet functions with the space. It's a shame, because it was beautiful, and the chef was talented. I've since heard that the chef, David Katz, is working on opening up a bistro where Sandy's coffee shop is in the Filter Square area. Should be interesting. As for M, my colleague Michael Klein reported in November that Neil Stein was angling to reemerge with something there...

Hi Craig: Enjoy your chat and weekly reviews. What is your take on the article about Neil Stein partnering up to open a new restaurant in the previous "M" spot on Eighth Street.

Eliot - I'm not sure I've seen the article you're referring to, so I don't know many details. But if Neil is serious about a comeback, I'm all for it. He's a character, for sure, but always made classy restaurants.

Okay, Craig, I moved here six months ago and I finally figured out how to get onto your chat while it's live. (No link from the Food page? Crazy!) Now I just have to think of something to ask... oh, here it is. As a reward from my workplace, I can get a free dinner for two anywhere in the Philly area, absolutely no restrictions. Is Le Bec Fin worth it, or should I hold out for my original plan, degustazione at Vetri? Or somewhere else? Not enough of a fish fan for Morimoto, although I hear that would be the best way to crank up the bill. Thanks!

Hey Jael, welcome to Philly! You have two good high-end choices there with Le Bec and Vetri, and it really comes down to your food preference. If you're going to go for the long-haul mega meal, I still think Le Bec does multi-course tastings the best (I'm an a la carte person at Vetri, which can be pasta heavy in multi-courses). But there are some other great tastings in town, as well, including the chefs menus (with wine pairings) at Amada and Tinto, and also at Lacroix at the Rittenhouse. All of those, of course, have unique personalities, so it really depends which suits you. It's a shame you don't do sushi. The Morimoto omakase at the sushi counter is one of Philly's signature eating splurges.

I, too, love scotch and have found that Mahogany has one of the best scotch/whiskey selections in the city. I was always intimidated by the place because it seemed to be more for men and I don't smoke, but it doesn't get too smoky and teh service there is great. Its a great place to relax after work. My only problem is they don't have any drink specials. Craig: I love FridaySaturdaySunday, but would like to try something new...any suggestions of something similar?

Nicole - thanks for that report on Mahogany. I've never actually had a meal there, but was pleasantly surprised when I popped up there for a drink a few years ago. It's very clubby, though. You need to love plaid carpet and snifters to relax.

On the free dinner thing, I should specify that what I want most is a dinner that will knock my socks off. Best possible food.

Jael - all of the places mentioned above are great. It's just a matter of preference from a food perspective. From a racking-up-the-bill perspective, I think Le Bec is still in its own astronomical category. They just dont' make restaurants with that much polished silver anymore.

Where can I find the Milan Salad that they served at Jimmys Milan? Iceberg, hard-boiled eggs, bacon. shrimp and russian dressing. The best.

Sophie, you should hang out with my bud, Rick Nichols, who is also a big fan of this salad. [me, less so]. That said, I believe that D'Angelo's on 20th Street is one of the last bastions of the Jimmy Milan salad in Phillly.

Is anything going to replace crescent city?

Good question, Kevin. It's sort of a gap tooth in South Street's revival. It was a very nice space, though, as opposed to one of those old beater restaurants that needs a complete rehab. So I'm sure someone will jump on it before long....

Craig I've oftened wondered do you cook as well as you eat

Well, Sophie, I just don't get as much of a chance to cook as I'd like. But I love to bang the pots when I get a chance, and I have a few signature moves in the kitchen. It's like therapy. You'll have to ask my wife and neighbors if it's any good, though. The eating part, as you know, I have down to a sweet science.

I went to Supper last week and it was good so there is still a good place to eat on south street

Ah yes, Supper. Just interviewed Mitch and Jennifer Prensky yesterday over the phone about my meals there. Interesting... Their review will appear on Feb. 17, so I'll be mum on what's for supper until then....

In South Philly, specifically Passyunk Avenue - seems to be having a revial of decent restaurants. Tre Scallini, La Virtu, Paradiso, Cantina, et al. What about the older original stand-bys, such as Marras, & Mamma's? And what do you know about Mr. Martino's Trattoria? Is it really ever open for business?

Good afternoon, Denine. You are right about East Passyunk, it's in full revival mode now, and has been for at least the past five years. You've named some of the real highlights there. As for the oldies, well, I don't think they're in the same league as the new offerings. I was at Marra's, in fact, not that long ago. I've always liked their pizza, but DON"T order anything else. I was shocked, in fact, by how bad the rest of their red gravy stuff was - even my 8-year-old refused to eat her ravioli. It seemed like no effort or love had been spent on this food at all. It's been a few years since I ate at Mamma Maria's, but it was not a highlight meal. Mr. Martino's? I haven't been there in nearly a decade, mostly because it never seems to be open.

Hi Craig...where can I find the best homemade pasta in the city? Not dry or prepackaged stuff. I want it made in-house...thanks.

Scott B - if you're talking about restaurants (as opposed to the numerous fresh pasta retail outlets around town), there are a number of places. Firstly, the Vetri restaurants and his acolytes are a good place to begin - I'm thinking of the pappardelle with duck and bitter chocolate at James, for example. But there are also some other great pasta makers in town - like Melograno and Sovalo (who both did wonders with beet green ravioli), and L'Angolo (where I love the broccoli rabe ravioli). Modo Mio has some original pasta ideas. And so does Le Castagne, where I recall the Brescia-style pastas actually being their best course [though it has been a VERY long time since I ate there....] I'm sure there are others I'm not thinking of. Maybe we'll have a more complete list for a future chat, as this one's winding down...

Mr. Martino's is open Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights only. We were just there on Friday night and the food was as delish as ever. Especially the house special "balsamic chicken"

Katie O, thanks for this Mr. Martino spotting! Glad to hear they are still open. A lot folks love the ambiance of the place. In my one visit years ago, found it a little dusty, the staff a bit surly and excruciatingly slow, and the menu extremely limited to stuff I might just as well cook at home. But it has a charm. I should probably revisit to refresh my impressions. It seemed like a one-of-a-kind operation.

Still would like to sing the praises of Desi Village in Germantown for generally excellent Indian fare. Some tandoor items I've not seen elsewhere. Some dishes outdo even Tiffin.

Thanks for the report on Desi Village - is this the same one that is in King of Prussia, just across from the mall? IF so, that would be worth a try. I think of Desi Village as one of the most edible options after a hard day's shopping at the mall..

Craig, I agree with most of your observations still holding true- especially the slow service- bit it has a unique charm and, if youve got the time, is worth the wait!

You've convinced me to give it another shot - especially now I know it's still kicking! Nothing like a perpetually closed iron gate to turn prospective diners away....

Yes, I was talking about restaurants for fresh pasta....thanks, I will try some of your recommendations soon

Scott B - thanks for coming and sparking a noodle quest. We'll all be curious to hear what you find in coming weeks. On that note, I think this chat is perfectly al dente, so I'm going to say "basta" while it still has some snap. I'll be back next week, though. So until then, may you all be well and eat something worth bragging about!