Restaurant Chat: News about Mandoline, views about lots of other spots
But don't ask Inquirer critic Craig LaBan about homemade sushi or neglected niches.
Craig: Good afternoon, my friends, and welcome back from lunch. Now put that work aside, and let’s talk food! Does anyone have an early report from Restaurant Week they’d care to share? Which restaurants are really dishing out some worthy values – the kind that would make you want return to pay full price? And which are serving their menu half-baked for the “bargain” price? I always find that a great chef can manage to make a meal sing at $30 or less, when the occasion arises, so in many ways this week is a great test. (Don’t forget – serious criticism is welcome, but should be signed with your real name.) I’ve had an interesting week on the local Fork Front, munching my way from
Marty: Hi Craig. I was wondering if you knew of a place where I could purchase sushi grade fish to make my own at home? Thanks!
Craig: Hi Marty - this is a good question that I seem to get more frequently. I can't answer from first-hand knowledge, because I'm the only one who eats raw fish in my family, and it's always so much better when a real pro is doing the slicing. Sushi is one of those deceptively difficult arts. The great chefs make it look so easy, but there's a reason Japanese chefs train for years and years before earning master sushi chef status. The preparation and handling of every fish is tricky. And learning to slice them so each piece reveals its ultimate tenderness and flavor is a true art. That said, assuming you already ARE a sushi master, I would simply head toward the best fish market you can find. I'm thinking Ippolito's in
scott:: 1. the whip, 2. la veranda 3. azure
Craig: Scott - you got the first one right. The Whip is nestled into the rolling hills of
Tonyjlive:: I just saw a "sushi grade" fish down at ippolito's the other day, I only recall seeing one and don't remember which it was though ...On a heavier note, where can one fine a good carbonara in the city Craig?
Craig: Tonyjlive - thanks for the fish-spotting report. As for your question - don't you ask me that every week? I just ate a bolognese, not a carbonara! Probably because a great carbonara is almost impossible to find. The chef at Modo Mio serves an interesting twist on carbonara, with sausage and little bay scallops in a parmesan froth, but it's not the classic preparation. Any fellow carbonara-holics out there in the chat room want to offer up some nominees?
Moe Sizlack:: What are Philly's most underrated restaurants? I've had some truly great meals at Mandoline, yet it's never that full, and you never hear anything about it. Any restaurants you feel that way about?
Craig: Moe - thanks for this good question, but it's one I have a hard time answering. Problem is I'm usually the one doing the rating, so I'm rarely at odds with my own verdict. Hopefully I get those ratings just right. Usually, at least. If you're asking more about which restaurants deserve a bigger crowd than they draw, I might be able to chime in with a little more thought. I do think Mandoline is a smart little BYO with serious food, though. It's so small, though, I can't imagine it not feeling crowded. I wouldn't be surprised, though, if it has continued to improve since my visits, as I think the chef is a young talent. He came from one fine suburban restaurant that I know has been consistently great throughout the years, but rarely gets attention: Carambola in Dresher. I haven't been back in a while myself, but I never hear anything but good reports. Great grilled pizzas and phyllo-wound shrimp... any other suggestions out there?
Tonyjlive:: Not every week, once a month or so
Craig: Just teasing, Tonyjlive. A good carbonara would be worth bragging about. Around here, I've mostly had noodles with curdled eggs.
Tom: Have you been to Oceanaire? How does it compare toCraig: Yes, Tom. I reviewed Oceanaire earlier this year and gave them a tepid 2 bells. Loved the upscale room, thought they used excellent ingredients and had a worthy raw bar. The contemporary dishes were significantly better executed than the old standards, though, and the old standards should be the bread and butter of the place. In addition, they've changed chefs since my review, so who knows where they stand? I still prefer Oceanaire to McCormick & Schmick, where I've yet to get a very good meal. The bar for ingredients and cooking skill is higher at the Oceanaire. I've been to many meals at
Craig: Tom - glad you enjoyed Pepe's. It really is a must stop for anyone who studies the art of the great American pizza. I'd say 45 minutes is a pretty short wait for that place. Their coal-fired ovens, some of which are more than 100 years old, are just magical. Their pies have a zestiness that can't be faked.
mike: The whip; Davio's; Sabrina's
Craig: OK, Mike. We're getting there... that Islander is one of the signature items on the menu at the new Sabrina's on Callowhill, and I must say it is an impressively good sandwich. Nice thick piece of ahi tuna built into an excellent sandwich on soft, eggy Portuguese bread (more like brioche) with a super ripe slice of tomato, a delicate rib of lettuce, and a mop of sweet caramelized onions to temper the spice of the wasabi mayo. I'd go back for that. Or maybe it was just the crisp polenta fries which get such a sneaky and addictive burn from the minced chiles inside. I was pleasantly surprised, after some mixed reports from colleagues and friends, to find that Sabrina's has successfully cloned its overstuffed Italian Market mojo for the Callowhill crowd.
Robert: Craig, if you were to open a restaurant in Phila, what theme would you use? What market niche is underserved?
Craig: Now Robert...you know I can't answer that one. There's no consulting allowed in this critic gig - even if I did know what that next great restaurant concept was (which I don't). I can tell you that real culinary talent and heart and passion for great food and a sense of genuine hospitality can make even the most unlikely concept soar.











