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Craig Laban chat transcript, Oct. 28, 2008

Craig: Good afternoon, my hungry friends, are you still rain-soaked and chilled from last night's bout of World Series Interruptus? On today's Philly food chat, let's warm it up a hearty dose of comfort food. We can dip back into some follow-up reports from last week's discussion on where you watched the games - the winners and the losers. Also, we can veer into a couple side topics featured in my colleague Michael Klein's blog, The Insider, which notes the closing of Sovalo in NoLibs, and the ever-expanding Garces empire (now going casino, surprise!) But what I'd really like to do today is go ruminate on some soul-warming cold-weather staples. What are some of your favorites? I know I've been exploring some of mine these past few days, as you can surmise from this week's Crumb Tracker Quiz. Guess in order which three places I ate these dishes, and win! 1) Polish stuffed cabbage with a side of buttery mashed beets; 2) "Dutch"-style hot roast turkey with mashed potatoes and gravy; 3) soba noodle "carbonara." Ready, set…start crumbing!

Craig:  Hi folks - we're having a brief technical issue here...please bear with me as we work through the glitches in our new chat software!

Tony Fitts:  Hi Everybody - I know the name says Tony Fitts, but it's really Craig LaBan here, typing from Tony's computer. I've been locked in they cyber closet for the past 10 minutes, reading your questions but unable to post them. But now we're good to go, and you all even get to experience one of my aliases!!

[Comment From Art] So what did Parc hit on the decibel meter? Hit 100

Tony Fitts:  Hi Art - Parc nearly dethroned Jones as the champ-een slugger of ear-busting restaurants. The main dining room hit 96-98 decibels, and I'm not sure I even caught it at its peak. Jones remains the only place in town to break the 100 plateau...

[Comment From Marty] Hi Craig. Just had a great "soul-warming" order of jajangmyeon from a place next to my office. It hit the spot!

[Comment From Foodie in Joisey] One of my favorite comfort foods is pot roast with all that salty gravy and mashed potatoes. Usually served with carrots which are roasted and sweet.

[Comment From Michael G] My favorite cold weather dish is cassoulet but my brother lived in Paris for four years so I haven't found a place that makes here thats exceptional (Caribou cafe is ok)....do you have any suggestions

Tony Fitts:  Those all sound like great cold-weather slayers, though, for the rest of us, Marty, can you elaborate a little on the jajangmyeon? (Like...what it is, where you ate it, etc...)

[Comment From Eliot] Hi Craig: I just finished reading your last chat, which mostly concerned itself with suggestions by your readers on where to watch sports and especially the Phillies world series games. There is a new place that just opened last night at 32nd and Chestnut Streets called MIKEY'S. A sports bar and restaurant. Great food not just the usual sports bar grub. For a first night just opening the doors the food was great. My friends & I ordered from an extensive menu. From their appetisers and pizza to the main courses. Good drinks and best of all new large flat screen tv's spread around the restaurant. For a new place it was great.

 

Tony Fitts:  This is a brand new place, so thanks for the early report, Eliot. West Philly needs all the good new restaurant energy it can get..

[Comment From Guest] Hi Craig - anything of note going on for the day of the dead this weekend (Saturday or Sunday)?

Tony Fitts:  That's a great question - I haven't heard anything specific through the usual sources (press releases, readers, etc.) but I wouldn't be surprised if some of our bright new Mexican places (Distrito, Paxia, Xochitl, the Cantinas...) are doing something interesting.

[Comment From joanne] Hi Craig. With all your experience with restaurants, have you ever thought of opening your own?

Tony Fitts:  When I was much younger, Joanne, and just leaving cooking school, I definitely thought about a career in the kitchen. But I'm a journalist now, not a pro cook, or a restaurant entrepreneur, and those pursuits demand totally different skills than I've been practicing for the past 15 years. It would be the ultimate challenge - but don't hold your breath....

[Comment From Greg] Craig - I know it's now open yet but any thoughts on the the new steak house DelFrisco's that's coming. Also, any thoughts on Starr opening up another steakhouse just a few blocks away from Barclay? Barclay is good but overpriced for my money compared to Capital Grille, Mortons and the like. Thanks!

Tony Fitts:  Thanks for the question, Greg. I'm a fan of Barclay Prime, more than Morton's, I'd say. I like Capital, but it's a different style of steakhouse than Barclay, far more corporate. From a purely aesthetic point of view, I'm always curious to see how many different takes there are on an old concept - because it's always fun to discover there's a novel new one. I don't anticipate Del Frisco's to be a new idea, just a grand version of the old-style steakhouse (If I recall, it was originally the high-end prime grade concept from the owner of Lonestar and Sullivan's). Starr's concepts, of course, are always worth considering, and always deliver their own signature twist. I have serious doubts, however, as to whether this economy can really support so much high-end meat and potatoes. Time will tell, and I'll be there to taste them, hot off the grill....

[Comment From Megan] Where can I get a good burger in Conshohocken

Tony Fitts:  Blackfish made a killer burger last year when I was doing my burger round-up. Definitely worth checking out.

[Comment From Pedro Dias] Craig, something that's bugged me for a while: why is the Inquirer's coverage of the PLCB so perfunctory? I get *much* more information about buying wine in Pennsylvania from the Pitt Post-Gazette than I get from my hometown newspaper...

Tony Fitts:  Hi Pedro - I'm not sure exactly what you're referring to, because we write about the LCB all the time, both from a news perspective and a consumer's perspective. My Drink column every Sunday usually recommends a wine or spirit - almost always available in Pa. The fact that we're so close to Jersey and Delaware, however, opens up stores in those areas for possible features (we do have readers there, too!) In Pittsburgh, the state stores are the only option. But definitely, I'm writing about wines available through the LCB almost every week.

[Comment From jeannette] Quiz: 1) Syrenka 2) Dutch Eating Place 3) Morimoto

Tony Fitts:  You nailed it, Jeanette - our first Crumb Tracker winner in several weeks! (Please email me at claban@phillynews.com your mailing info so I can send you a signed book soon..) Yes, Syrenka is the Polish buffet in Port Richmond that is one of the best bargain meals in town - a huge and tasty stuffed cabbage in sweet and sour red gravy with a side of buttery mashed beets for just $7. (Their bigos kraut stew, and their pan-fried pork chops are also favorites); 2) Just pulled up a stool at the Dutch eating place last week, and that turkey platter really hit the spot. Very simple food, but satisfying in a homemade way that so many diners around here no longer do. 3) This was an odd fusion dish at Morimoto, but not the first time I've had Italo-Japanese fusion there. It was a very good idea - tasty soba noodles with the pop of edamame, the smoke of little bits of pancetta (?) in a truffled parmesan cream, with sweet little bay scallops. In truth, the sauce was just a little too heavy on the cream for such delicate noodles, but the flavors were a nice match. On the topic of comfort food, though, and comforting soups, Morimoto's chicken ramen soup may be the most fortifying bowl in town...

[Comment From jeannette] Hi Craig! I was thinking about getting soup today for lunch since it's such a cold, rainy day. I was wondering if you have any favorite places to pick up soup (not eat-in) in Center City.

Tony Fitts:  That Morimoto chicken ramen is high on my list, but there are so many others I love , especially in Chinatown - the shrimp dumplings noodle soup at Ong's, the shaved noodle seafood soup at Nan Zhou Hand-Drawn noodle house.... There is also great posole soup at Acapulco in the Italian Market, the tortilla soup at Distrito (and El Vez) are just fabulous; the matzo ball soups at Hershel's (and Marathon Grill) are worth a craving; and I also recall loving the gastropub soup-as-a-meal at N. 3rd. There are many, many others, but that's a good start.

[Comment From Jay] Cold weather comfort food - where's the best cassoulet in town?

Tony Fitts:  Jay - that is an excellent question. I'm drawing a blank at this very moment, but with all the new French bistros in town, I'd think there's one good one out there. It's one of my favorite dishes, but again, it's such a hearty dish that it can be a difficult thing to make well - the perfect combination flavorful white beans, garlic sausage and salty duck confit.... anyone out there with some good crocks of cassoulet?

[Comment From mark] speaking of comfort food have you ever reviewed or eaten at Meil's in Stockton, NJ.?

Tony Fitts:  No, Mark, not yet, but I've seen it many times near the Stockton Inn. It has a great reputation, and is spoken well of by folks I know and respect up there. Is there anything there that I shouldn't miss when I finally get there?

[Comment From Jack] Any favorite spots in Doylestown and Bucks County to recommend....

Tony Fitts:  I'd say Slate Bleu (a French bistro that might be a good bet for a cassoulet) is a good bet, as well as Honey's, an ambitious small-plate spot in downtown that I enjoyed last year. Also, in Newtown Square, I was very impressed with the upscaled French country cooking at Rouget. He's another guy who could probably pull out a great cassoulet.

[Comment From Jaime] What are some of the restaurants you loved that you were very sad to see go? Do you know what any of those owners / chefs are up to?

Tony Fitts:  Jaime - I'm actually really sad to see Sovalo close. It always seemed to hit just the right note of sophistication and good seasonal flavors - and fit so many occasions, from a date to a dinnner with old friends. And I thought it was fairly priced for the quality, and more importantly, it added a note of sophistication to NoLib's dining scene that is kind of rare. Others I was sad to see close? Deux Cheminees and Sansom Street Oyster House - even if they were old fashioned, I loved the food and feeling of those places. Pasion is another spot that is sorely missed (by me) - Pernot at his creative peak in the kitchen was a joy to eat and report on...

[Comment From Jon Staz] Hi Craig, I just got back from New Orleans, loved the food down there. Is there any gumbo or jambalaya places you could recommend for this cold weather.

Tony Fitts:  I'd suggest, in this order: Cajun Kate's (in the Booth's Corner Farmer's Market in Boothwyn), Ted's on Main (Medford), Melange Cafe (Cherry Hill), and Les Bons Temps (though I haven't been since the changes there...)...and Grace isn't too bad for jambalaya when they don't let it get too soupy.

[Comment From Buckethead] Best cassoulet I've had is at Cochon, but it was a special, not a regular menu item. Pub and Kitchen had a good one as a special recently too.

Tony Fitts:  EXcellent suggestions.

[Comment From Brett] Is there anything worth eating in Norristown?

Tony Fitts:  There's August Moon (Korean) and Taqueria La Michoacana (authentic Mexican, not my favorite, reallly, but not terrible...)

 

[Comment From Rick] Craig, Speaking of french bistros - I had the pleasure of dining at Coquette in the past. In my opinion this was much more authentic than Starr's Parc. Nonethless, I've heard rumors that this is closing. Is this true? How would you compare Parc and Coquette?

Tony Fitts:  Glad to hear a good word on Coquette, Rick. I haven't been back recently, but I'd have to say my Coquette meals weren't nearly as authentic as what I ate at Parc. Parc's issues weren't authenticity, per se, as much as execution. The chef there, Dominique Filoni, is as French as they come.

[Comment From mark] Corn Fritters and Meatloaf. Real homemade...Speaking of soups they always have soem of the best around with a new type almost every day. Cabbage especially good.......

Tony Fitts:  I love corn fritters, Marc. In fact, the fellow sitting next to us at the Dutch Eating Place was kind enough to share a couple with us.... very nice, hot little nuggets of chewy deep-fried corn goodness.

[Comment From Pedro Dias] Cochon in fact has had several different cassoulet versions, and one of them is now on the menu.

[Comment From Carol Fritz] Comfort food? Why is it so hard to find prime rib on a menu in Philly? (Other than at The Prime Rib, of course)

Tony Fitts:  Carol - A good prime rib is a commitment, in space, time, kitchen culture, so it's no wonder that few restaurants choose to do it. In town, there is no equal to the Prime Rib's prime rib. But I'd say the ones I've eaten at Brasserie Perrier (on Sunday) and the Palm are pretty worthwhile.

[Comment From John] Best comfort food.... Schnitzel and fried potatoes..... yumm

Tony Fitts:  You just made me think of the rabbit schnitzel at 10 Arts.... it's a bit too delicate to go under the category of comfort food, what with all those poufs of microgreens, but it's delicious. I'd like to find a good traditional schnitzel, though. I haven't had a good one in a very long time - not since I ate at Danube, Bouley's Austrian jewel in lower Manhattan, many years ago. I expected to get a pretty good one at City Tavern last spring, given Walter Staib's German influence....but it was very disappointing, unevenly browned, soggy in parts. It's a shame, given this city's German heritage, how difficult it is to find good German food anymore.

[Comment From Dombino] I recently has the jumbalaya at Joe Browns new place in Haddonfield and thought it was so spicey it almost burned my taste buds to the point where I couldn't taste the meal.

Tony Fitts:  Sorry to hear that about the Haddonfield branch of Melange. I had one lunch there, and found it to be not bad, but not special either, but one always worries about consistency when a restaurateur expands.

[Comment From Dom] Craig, can you direct me to where in Newtown Square Rouget is?

Tony Fitts:  Rouget is on Swamp Road, just a block off the old downtown's Main Street, right across the parking lot from La Stalla. It's very worthwhile.

[Comment From Guest] Ilgs Meats in bucks county I believe. They have the best selection of german meats and are always happy to share a good hearty old world recipe.

Tony Fitts:  Well, between Ilg's and Rieker's we're all set for serious German ingredient and butchery. But presenting it in a restaurant setting is almost non-existent around here.

[Comment From Chad C] I think the only good German restaurant in the area is the Guard House Inn over in Gladwyne.

Tony Fitts:  Absolutely correct. It's been a long while since I ate at the Old Guard House, and it was as much "continental" as it was German, but I really enjoyed my food and service. Very old school. A Gladwyne institution. But still a very classy place for a nice dinner.

[Comment From Pedro Dias] Second Cajun Kate's Jambalaya - excellent, thanks for the find. Also her smoked brisket gumbo. Grace Tavern's, on the other hand, was a godawful tomatoey mess the one time i tried it...

[Comment From Dom] Ahh. Okay. Rouget is in Newtown, Bucks County...

Tony Fitts:  Sorry about the confusion there, Dom. Yes, it's Newtown, Bucks County.

[Comment From John] Well, I have heard there may be a new German place coming to South St... but we will see...

Tony Fitts:  Interesting...lemme look into it....

[Comment From Brett] Is there any place to purchase Prime Beef for cooking besides Main Line Prime, the closer to Center City the better-

Tony Fitts:  Absolutely! In the Reading Terminal, there's always Harry Ochs, which is probably the best butcher in town. But I've also become a quick fan of Giunta's Prime, a new-ish butcher just a few stands away. They have very nice meat, excellent service, and pretty good prices, too. Of course, there is also always Sonny D'Angelo in the Italian Market, who also has some of the only grass-fed beef in town that 's not previously frozen (as well as a selection of kobe beef, etc.)

[Comment From Jeremy D.] I'm sorry to come in so late to the chat, but has anyone mentioned Jones? I know that it is kitchy and gimmicky and all, but they--honest to god--have the real comfort foods from my childhood and I just LOVE that place, especially in the winter. That tomato soup and grilled cheese sandwich warms my soul...

Tony Fitts:  Definitely - Jones delivers on the comfort food promise. I still think they make possibly the best fried chicken in town. And that chocolate cake (I believe a legacy of Sonjia Spector's stint there pre-Matyson)...is excellent.

[Comment From Steve G] Craig, any recommendations of where to get pho around Center City or Washington Ave? Haven't had it since my days out in California.

Tony Fitts:  I'm a Pho 75 fan, both on Washington Ave. (at 12th) and in Chinatown at their new-ish Race St. location. You've got to like a place that is so serious about its soup that pho is the only thing they make. If you want to nibble on something else, there's always Nam Phuong (across teh parking lot from Pho 75), Vietnam, Vietnam Palace and Pho Cali, also in Chinatown.

[Comment From Jeremy D.] Yeah, I love that cake, too! A little off-topic...I was on a chat with you a couple of months ago and someone briefly mentioned my neighborhood (wash west) sushi place, Shinju. I was just wondering if you have ever eaten there and what is your quick and dirty take on it? It just got really high marks (at least for the food) in Zagat.

Tony Fitts:  I liked Shinju QUITE a lot. It's a small place, with sort of flighty, slow service, but I found many of the composed rolls to be creative, generously portioned, and well crafted. This is not a place to go for any particularly exotic or special fish, but they make up for it in roll creativity, freshness and value. Wish Shinju was in my neighborhood.

[Comment From Chad C] Pho Ha at 6th and Washington is very good.

Tony Fitts:  I think Pho Ha is one of those places you go when people want to get something other than pho. It's ok, but I've had less luck here than Pho 75 - the noodles aren't quite as snappy, the broth isn't quite as complex. It's still not a bad spot - we sometimes use it for a weekend take-out lunch on the way back from a big stock-up shop at the supermaket on Del. Ave....

[Comment From Steve G] I've been to Shinju once before and thought it was pretty good. I'm not a big sushi fan, but it's one of the few places where I've actually found something that I liked. It's very tiny though, only about 5 or 6 tables.

Tony Fitts:  I was most intrigued by some of the pressed rolls - great textures, lots of crunchies, good spicy fish...

[Comment From Jeremy D.] Not to hijack the whole chat, but I have ONE MORE question. We really like La Lupe in south philly for that genuine mexican taqueria thing, but..we have (shamefully) never tried any of the other places. Are there any that you recommend. One caveat: we don't eat meat!

Tony Fitts:  Jeremy - you're right, that is another chat. ...

[Comment From Jay] craig, just got done "the man who ate everything"... is there any food you had to force yourself to learn to like if you were going ? Are there still things you order on a menu that you appreciate more for their execution/artistry than the actual pleasure you derive out of it, given it may not be your favorite type of food?

Tony Fitts:  Jay - I can't say I was looking forward to the grilled veal liver I just ate on Friday night. But if you happen to be hanging out at the right Uzbeki grill (as I was), you might be surprised at how good grilled liver can be....(I know I was...)

[Comment From Carol Fritz] All this food talk is making me hungry...

Tony Fitts:  OK, so we're doing something right here....

[Comment From Eliot] High Craig: Just a thought!!!!! Are you going to use Tony Fitts as your AKA in this space again or just when you have a computer glich. Is this your alias when you visit a restaurant or do you use the names of friends and colleges when making reservations. Fun job !!!!

Tony Fitts:  On those notes, I'm going to call this chat grilled to perfection (like that tender cube of creamy veal liver...) I apologize for the early delay, but we got it going just fine, thanks to my colleague, Tony Fitts, who volunteered his computer. I fully expect Mr. Fitts to receive this week the most attentive service and tastiest cooking this fair city has to offer. You never know...it could be me...(or one of you stalwart chatters, for that matter!) Until next week, then, may you all be well, may the Phillies finish what they started, and may we all eat something worth bragging about!

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