PETER TOBIA / Inquirer Staff Photographer
Craig LaBan says Brown Sugar Bakery & Cafe is the "real deal" for Caribbean food like this dish of curried chicken roti.
Restaurant Chat: Little Pete's, authentic Caribbean and burger gossip
When critic Craig LaBan chats, you never know what will wind up on his plate.
Craig: Good afternoon, my hungry friends, and welcome back to the Philly food chat that chews back. What have you been eating, drinking, thinking? Send me your best questions, and we’ll throw them for a sizzle on the hot grill. It’s been a tasty week on my side of things, and not just at my annual block party blow-out, where the neighbors go nuts with the side dishes (real potatoes au gratin…yum!) and desserts (fresh pie and homemade flan!), and the guys finally stopped being cheap and put a keg of some good stuff (Yard’s Philly Pale Ale) on tap. As you can see from this week’s Crumb Tracker Quiz, I’ve been busy eating out, as well. Be the first to guess the three places I ate these dishes (in order) and win a signed copy of my book: 1) authentic Israeli lamb-chicken shawarma and fresh falafel; 2) totally melty Valrhona chocolate brownies (hint: this was purchased at one of the newer prepared foods markets) ; 3) excellent salmon pad Thai (hint: not in Center City). Ready, set….chat!
Craig: Hi John - My colleague, Michael Klein, is the true guru of restaurant gossip, so I'd like to point your attention to his comprehensive fall restaurant preview in this upcoming Thursday's food section. He details the comings and soon-to-openings of more than 40 restaurants, including the space you ask about. My understanding is that it's going to be called Pearl, and will be a pan-Asian place from the crew behind Red Sky in Old City. Judging from my meals long ago at RS, which were far better than I expected from an Old City lounge, I'd say Pearl will be something worth checking out. That said, with that Little Pete's now gone, there is something sad about the increasing demise of the greasy spoon luncheonette...for better, or worse. Like our classic diners, we're losing a tradition.
Craig: I have in-laws that live in upstate NY, they love fresh made fudge and want me to bring some up on our next trip. Aside from driving down to Ocean City is there any place in Philly that does fudge well?
Craig: oops. That question was from "Bob"
Craig: Bob - thanks for that fudgey question. I really haven't looked for fudge when I'm not at the shore, so perhaps I'm not the best one to give you an answer here (chatters, anyone?) So many of the new sweet shops that are really making quality stuff skip straight to the truffles. As for fudge down the shore, though, where the tradition is still alive and well, I'm a fan of Seaside Sweets in Cape May, which also makes excellent taffy.
Phil: Add good delis to the list of disappearing stomach warmers, that includes greasy spoon luncheonettes and hot dog joints.
Craig: I'll second that....but I did just hear this one tidbit of heartwarming (albeit unconfirmed) gossip, that owner/corned beef-turn-around-artist Russ Cowan has returned to the Famous Deli. Check back for more details and confirmation...
Evan: Craig, thanks for the chat. Why is this city so lacking in authentic West Indies roti shops? In my experience, the only authentic one i've come across is Brown Sugar at 52nd and Chancellor (which, by the way, is fantastic). Any others you can recommend in the city?
Craig: Evan - funny you should mention it, but I was just at Brown Sugar (which I wrote about last year) a week ago, grabbing a chana roti while shopping for the Jamaican feast I wrote about in this Thursday's food section.... Great food, very loud socca music, and they need to work on customer service (like the occasional smile and 'thank you'), but it's the real deal. I also loved the steamed cornmeal cake with callaloo for something different. Why aren't there more great Caribbean restaurants around? That's simply a matter of demographics, I think, but you're right they are few and far between. That said, if you want to find the right ingredients to make your own, they can be found in some fantastic Caribbean/African markets on Walnut just east of 52nd Street. We found all our ingredients for an authentic jerk sauce there, plus a zillion other exotic things to cook.
Anthony: Craig, I was hearing about a new york based burger restaurant opening near rittenhouse, Have you heard anything about this?
Craig: Anthony - I have NOT heard this yet, but could you be confusing it with Five Guys, the DC-area chain that has landed in this area over the past year?
JLR: I read your review this past Sunday of 707 and while I agree with some of your commentary (LOVE the Ruben spring rolls!), I was confused as to why you just gave it one bell. It seemed like from your writing this should have been a two bell review.
Craig: JLR - You're right that I found a lot to like about 707, especially the look, the vibe, the concept, the bar. But you can't eat a cool vibe, and the cooking, in my opinion, left much to be desired. I will always do my best to point out some of the highlights, even at a place that isn't getting glowing review, but I found much of the food at 707 to be underflavored and carelessly cooked. The reuben spring rolls were interesting, I thought, but a bit gimmicky -I'd never prefer one over the real thing. If you're going to update a classic, it's always more compelling if you actually improve it. I would certainly go to 707 for a light lunch or happy hour nibble, but it's not on my destination list quite yet.
Kari: The best hot dogs are from the cart at 17th and Market. Great little lady -- grills them instead of putting them in dirty water!
Craig: Kari - thanks for this report from the street, but don't you know...it's the Philly foodcart water that gives them that je ne sais quoi?
Joanna: Perhaps the burger place he's referencing is the one opening on Chestnut at the former Copa Miami?
John: I think Goodburger is coming to rittenhouse area.
Craig: Friends, these are all unconfirmed reports from the burger underground. All I have to say is, if I'm going to eat another cheeseburger at this point, after last spring's Burgermania, it's gotta be great. We still have room for one of the ultimate burger chains, like In-N-Out to make a statement.
John: Anyone know a good place to get Steak Tartare and frites? Le bec Fin has a good one, but it is too expensive for regular consumption. The one at Capital Grille is good, and so is the one at Ansill, but I am looking for a whole dinner portion. Any of the Steak places do it by request?
Craig: John - between the burgers and the entree-sized tartare, you might want to try a little fresh watercress to cleanse the palate. Tartare is something so intensely rich and indulgent, an entree portion might be in excess of Monty Python proportions. So be careful. That said, I love the venison tartare at Ansill, especially mixed with the quail egg, which gives that silky meat an extra shine.
Eliot: Craig: Have you heard anything about Teresa Next Door in Wayne. I have had two excellent dinners there and the wine bar and cheese plate were very good. Nice Ambiance
Craig: Eliot - Yes, I've heard plenty about Teresa's Next Door, but you'll have to wait until my Sept. 23 review to hear the full report. Beer lovers might definitely want to check it out soon...
MIKE: CRAIG, WE HAVE RESERVATIONS THIS WEEKEND AT THE SALOON, HAVE YOU EVER DONE A REVIEW THERE? WHAT CAN YOU RECOMMEND??
Craig: Mike - it has been a very, very long time since I dined at the Saloon, but in general, I've always found it to be much more successful when I think of it as a chop house rather than an Italian restaurant. The steaks and veal chops - traditionally marinated in olive oil and herbs -have always been outstanding. Some of the best in the city. The Italian cooking a little less memorable. My only advice, aside from ordering the veal chop, would be sure to ASK THE PRICES of the specials, as the Saloon's special prices are typically much higher than the menu entrees.
JLR: Is Teresa's next door different from Teresa's on Wayne Ave?
Craig: TND is the Belgian-themed pub that recently opened in the former paint store next to Teresa's, the brick-oven Italian place in downtown Wayne. Same owners, but very different concept, and with liquor license, including a substantial wine list to bolster the showcased beers.
George: Craig, I have been planning on trying out the Upstares at Varalli's for Restaurant week - any recommendations or preferences? I've heard it has a great atmosphere.
kbs::How is the new Brazilian Restaurant, [Fogo] de Chao. Should I bring out-of-towners there?
Craig: Kbs - I reviewed Fogo earlier this year with a scraped-by two bells, largely because I found it to be a fun, unique experience in a beautiful room. Worth trying once, and probably at lunch when the fixed-price meal is half-priced. But be prepared for an after meal meat coma. In sum, I preferred the authentic Brazilian steakhouse in Northeast Philly, Picanha, which has better meat and cooks over charcoal - though it is significantly less upscale than Fogo, so don't go for the atmosphere. Still, why take an out-of-town guest to a national chain when we have so many great places that are unique to Philadelphia?
Jennie: Is the answer to #2 the brownies at Pumpkin market?
Craig: Yes, Jennie, you got #2....and those brownies are awesomely rich and deep dark chocolatey. We actually ate them still warm from the oven. Anyone get the other two crumbs?
Lee: My guess for the Crumb Tracker quiz: 1) Pita Pocket; 2) DiBruno Bros; 3)Chabaa Thai.
Craig: Lee has nailed it, and since we're just about to shut this chat down, he has won this week's Crumb Tracker prize. Chabaa Thai is the pretty place in Manayunk, and their pad Thai really is quite good (see my Sept. 30 review for the full report!) As for the Pita Pocket, I was most pleasantly surprised the other day when I popped by for lunch. At the corner of 16th and Chancellor, this is one in a recent string of authentic new Israeli places, but I was impressed by the freshness of the food, as well as the friendliness of the staff (not usually a forte in the falafel genre). Good simple Mediterranean cooking done well, and the space is pleasant, too, especially the sunny upstairs dining room which is a great spot for a casual lunch.
Craig: And with that, I'm calling this chat medium-rare and ready to plate. Thanks to everyone who stole an hour from work to join me this afternoon. (Lee, please email me your mailing information at claban@phillynews.com so I can send you your book!) It's about time for me to grab an espresso, or two. So until next week, then, may you all be well and eat something to brag about!
John: Any idea what is going on with the old little petes spot at 19th and chestnut?
Craig: Hi John - My colleague, Michael Klein, is the true guru of restaurant gossip, so I'd like to point your attention to his comprehensive fall restaurant preview in this upcoming Thursday's food section. He details the comings and soon-to-openings of more than 40 restaurants, including the space you ask about. My understanding is that it's going to be called Pearl, and will be a pan-Asian place from the crew behind Red Sky in Old City. Judging from my meals long ago at RS, which were far better than I expected from an Old City lounge, I'd say Pearl will be something worth checking out. That said, with that Little Pete's now gone, there is something sad about the increasing demise of the greasy spoon luncheonette...for better, or worse. Like our classic diners, we're losing a tradition.
Craig: I have in-laws that live in upstate NY, they love fresh made fudge and want me to bring some up on our next trip. Aside from driving down to Ocean City is there any place in Philly that does fudge well?
Craig: oops. That question was from "Bob"
Craig: Bob - thanks for that fudgey question. I really haven't looked for fudge when I'm not at the shore, so perhaps I'm not the best one to give you an answer here (chatters, anyone?) So many of the new sweet shops that are really making quality stuff skip straight to the truffles. As for fudge down the shore, though, where the tradition is still alive and well, I'm a fan of Seaside Sweets in Cape May, which also makes excellent taffy.
Phil: Add good delis to the list of disappearing stomach warmers, that includes greasy spoon luncheonettes and hot dog joints.
Craig: I'll second that....but I did just hear this one tidbit of heartwarming (albeit unconfirmed) gossip, that owner/corned beef-turn-around-artist Russ Cowan has returned to the Famous Deli. Check back for more details and confirmation...
Evan: Craig, thanks for the chat. Why is this city so lacking in authentic West Indies roti shops? In my experience, the only authentic one i've come across is Brown Sugar at 52nd and Chancellor (which, by the way, is fantastic). Any others you can recommend in the city?
Craig: Evan - funny you should mention it, but I was just at Brown Sugar (which I wrote about last year) a week ago, grabbing a chana roti while shopping for the Jamaican feast I wrote about in this Thursday's food section.... Great food, very loud socca music, and they need to work on customer service (like the occasional smile and 'thank you'), but it's the real deal. I also loved the steamed cornmeal cake with callaloo for something different. Why aren't there more great Caribbean restaurants around? That's simply a matter of demographics, I think, but you're right they are few and far between. That said, if you want to find the right ingredients to make your own, they can be found in some fantastic Caribbean/African markets on Walnut just east of 52nd Street. We found all our ingredients for an authentic jerk sauce there, plus a zillion other exotic things to cook.
Anthony: Craig, I was hearing about a new york based burger restaurant opening near rittenhouse, Have you heard anything about this?
Craig: Anthony - I have NOT heard this yet, but could you be confusing it with Five Guys, the DC-area chain that has landed in this area over the past year?
JLR: I read your review this past Sunday of 707 and while I agree with some of your commentary (LOVE the Ruben spring rolls!), I was confused as to why you just gave it one bell. It seemed like from your writing this should have been a two bell review.
Craig: JLR - You're right that I found a lot to like about 707, especially the look, the vibe, the concept, the bar. But you can't eat a cool vibe, and the cooking, in my opinion, left much to be desired. I will always do my best to point out some of the highlights, even at a place that isn't getting glowing review, but I found much of the food at 707 to be underflavored and carelessly cooked. The reuben spring rolls were interesting, I thought, but a bit gimmicky -I'd never prefer one over the real thing. If you're going to update a classic, it's always more compelling if you actually improve it. I would certainly go to 707 for a light lunch or happy hour nibble, but it's not on my destination list quite yet.
Kari: The best hot dogs are from the cart at 17th and Market. Great little lady -- grills them instead of putting them in dirty water!
Craig: Kari - thanks for this report from the street, but don't you know...it's the Philly foodcart water that gives them that je ne sais quoi?
Joanna: Perhaps the burger place he's referencing is the one opening on Chestnut at the former Copa Miami?
John: I think Goodburger is coming to rittenhouse area.
Craig: Friends, these are all unconfirmed reports from the burger underground. All I have to say is, if I'm going to eat another cheeseburger at this point, after last spring's Burgermania, it's gotta be great. We still have room for one of the ultimate burger chains, like In-N-Out to make a statement.
John: Anyone know a good place to get Steak Tartare and frites? Le bec Fin has a good one, but it is too expensive for regular consumption. The one at Capital Grille is good, and so is the one at Ansill, but I am looking for a whole dinner portion. Any of the Steak places do it by request?
Craig: John - between the burgers and the entree-sized tartare, you might want to try a little fresh watercress to cleanse the palate. Tartare is something so intensely rich and indulgent, an entree portion might be in excess of Monty Python proportions. So be careful. That said, I love the venison tartare at Ansill, especially mixed with the quail egg, which gives that silky meat an extra shine.
Eliot: Craig: Have you heard anything about Teresa Next Door in Wayne. I have had two excellent dinners there and the wine bar and cheese plate were very good. Nice Ambiance
Craig: Eliot - Yes, I've heard plenty about Teresa's Next Door, but you'll have to wait until my Sept. 23 review to hear the full report. Beer lovers might definitely want to check it out soon...
MIKE: CRAIG, WE HAVE RESERVATIONS THIS WEEKEND AT THE SALOON, HAVE YOU EVER DONE A REVIEW THERE? WHAT CAN YOU RECOMMEND??
Craig: Mike - it has been a very, very long time since I dined at the Saloon, but in general, I've always found it to be much more successful when I think of it as a chop house rather than an Italian restaurant. The steaks and veal chops - traditionally marinated in olive oil and herbs -have always been outstanding. Some of the best in the city. The Italian cooking a little less memorable. My only advice, aside from ordering the veal chop, would be sure to ASK THE PRICES of the specials, as the Saloon's special prices are typically much higher than the menu entrees.
JLR: Is Teresa's next door different from Teresa's on Wayne Ave?
Craig: TND is the Belgian-themed pub that recently opened in the former paint store next to Teresa's, the brick-oven Italian place in downtown Wayne. Same owners, but very different concept, and with liquor license, including a substantial wine list to bolster the showcased beers.
George: Craig, I have been planning on trying out the Upstares at Varalli's for Restaurant week - any recommendations or preferences? I've heard it has a great atmosphere.
kbs::How is the new Brazilian Restaurant, [Fogo] de Chao. Should I bring out-of-towners there?
Craig: Kbs - I reviewed Fogo earlier this year with a scraped-by two bells, largely because I found it to be a fun, unique experience in a beautiful room. Worth trying once, and probably at lunch when the fixed-price meal is half-priced. But be prepared for an after meal meat coma. In sum, I preferred the authentic Brazilian steakhouse in Northeast Philly, Picanha, which has better meat and cooks over charcoal - though it is significantly less upscale than Fogo, so don't go for the atmosphere. Still, why take an out-of-town guest to a national chain when we have so many great places that are unique to Philadelphia?
Jennie: Is the answer to #2 the brownies at Pumpkin market?
Craig: Yes, Jennie, you got #2....and those brownies are awesomely rich and deep dark chocolatey. We actually ate them still warm from the oven. Anyone get the other two crumbs?
Lee: My guess for the Crumb Tracker quiz: 1) Pita Pocket; 2) DiBruno Bros; 3)Chabaa Thai.
Craig: Lee has nailed it, and since we're just about to shut this chat down, he has won this week's Crumb Tracker prize. Chabaa Thai is the pretty place in Manayunk, and their pad Thai really is quite good (see my Sept. 30 review for the full report!) As for the Pita Pocket, I was most pleasantly surprised the other day when I popped by for lunch. At the corner of 16th and Chancellor, this is one in a recent string of authentic new Israeli places, but I was impressed by the freshness of the food, as well as the friendliness of the staff (not usually a forte in the falafel genre). Good simple Mediterranean cooking done well, and the space is pleasant, too, especially the sunny upstairs dining room which is a great spot for a casual lunch.
Craig: And with that, I'm calling this chat medium-rare and ready to plate. Thanks to everyone who stole an hour from work to join me this afternoon. (Lee, please email me your mailing information at claban@phillynews.com so I can send you your book!) It's about time for me to grab an espresso, or two. So until next week, then, may you all be well and eat something to brag about!
