Restaurant Chat: Stephen Starr discusses inspirations, regrets and plans
Critic Craig LaBan and fellow foodies ask about everything from noise and service to how big can his empire grow?
Stephen: I think Philadelphia would be prime for a great BBQ restaurant. I personally don't really eat BBQ so its not been on my radar. I tend to do better with restaurant concepts that I would like to go to.
Marie: Hi I work at 2 Logan Square & there is a rumor you are taking over the cafeteria at Pepper Hamilton ... is this true?
Craig: What, a Stephen Starr cafeteria? It can't be true ... he wouldn't do a mall restaurant, either ... would he? Would you?
Stephen: Yes Marie. We have formed a different division of our company that is doing catering and special events. Pepper Hamilton is our law firm. So we agreed to do catering for them. And Craig, we are not going to a mall. If the suburbs want us, they have to come to us.
Craig: What is it about the suburban environment that you think doesn't work for your kind of restaurant concept?
Stephen: One. I think the image of the company maybe a bit tarnished by being in the suburbs. The other reason is that we want to be in the center of the universe where people from all suburbs can have easy access. I do struggle however with maybe doing a Jones in a place like the King of Prussia mall because I think people would truly be happy to have it there. I'll probably never do this.
WPD: Speaking of trends, will there ever be a real Molecular Gastronomy restaurant along the lines of Chicago's Moto and Alinea in Philly? As a follow-up: would you please consider opening one!?
Stephen: I personally do not like it unless it's done perfectly. And even then I find it to be a bit souless and self-indulgent.
Craig: While you've had plenty of success, you've also had a few misses, or a few restaurants that just didn't last. Looking back with hindsight, what have been your biggest mistakes?
Stephen: I think trying to open and design four restaurants at one time, a few years ago, was a mistake, and I believe Washington Square suffered because of it. Myself and my very talented people can pretty much handle two restaurants at a time. Anything beyond that gets a little scary.
michaelZ: Quick questions: Which one will be around the longest? Which one is your sentimental fave? Which one was a disappointment in the end? Which was the hardest to open?
Stephen: I love all of my children. However, i think the Continental at 2nd and Market will be around the longest and the Continental plus Buddakan will probably be my sentimental favorites because they were my first and the ones that I literally designed, worked in and shaped all on my own. Washington Square was a disappointment because I did not do a good enough job as I should have. The most difficult restaurant to open was Buddakan in New York, which probably also is the most spectacular of all of my restaurants.
Elisabeth: If you had to choose one meal at all your places, what would it be?
Stephen: Aged Beef at Buddakan in Philadelphia, Continental Salad and Matzo Ball Soup at Jones.
Marty: Stephen - My thoughts exactly about molecular gastronomy. The self indulgence is the deal breaker for me. How about a BYO for SRO?
Stephen: Funny you should ask but I have been looking to do a small BYO. If anyone has any good locations please let me know.
Craig: How many restaurants can one guy own, Stephen? What kind of limits have you set for yourself and the company in the future? Also, what other fields do you see yourself entering outside restaurants?
Craig: ... Stephen humming a Dylan tune in the background over the phone ... "How many restaurants can one guy own ... how many ..."
Stephen: I do restaurants that I get excited over. I don't say to myself "How many restaurant can one guy own?" If i get moved by an idea I wanna do it. I think this has been a key component to my success. I cannot do the amount of restaurants I've done in Philadelphia in other markets so I want to concentrate in Philadelphia and New York. I would like to pursue the opening of a hotel here in Philadelphia in the future.
Craig: We're going to wrap this conversation up pretty soon. But first, one more question ... Who do you admire most outside your company on the local scene? Who do you think might be the "next Stephen Starr"? And which Starr kitchen alums cooking on their own out there are you most proud of?





