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Amtrak
The Pullman porter dormitory soon will be gone , too. Historians credit the uniformed railroad attendants, many of whom were African American and were restricted to the basement, with laying the groundwork for the civil-rights movement.
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Changing Skyline: Powering down

The art deco steam plant and soaring smokestack near 30th Street Station soon will be gone, yet another emblem of industrial might vanished.

There comes a point in the life of our workhorse industrial buildings when we stop seeing them for the marvels they perform, and soon after that, we stop seeing them altogether. In Philadelphia, which abounds with the unused relics of a mighty industrial past, it's all too easy to forget that these are the structures that made the city modern.

Such has been the sad fate of the art deco steam plant behind 30th Street Station, built in 1929 by the architects of the rail terminal, with the same progressive ideas and design skill. Although the plant's octagonal smokestack soars 323 feet off a six-story base, making it one of West Philadelphia's tallest structures, one wonders how many of the thousands of passing commuters ever consciously note its presence. In two weeks, it could be gone, unceremoniously deleted from the skyline by Amtrak.

A building that churned out steam and electricity may not sound like a big deal. But the plant enabled the Pennsylvania Railroad - one of Amtrak's ancestors - to shift its main depot from Broad Street in the heart of Center City, to downtown's perimeter on 30th Street.

That allowed the railroad to electrify its train fleet and tear down the loathsome Chinese Wall tracks, paving the way for Market Street to become Philadelphia's premier high-rise office corridor - a modern business center. Those accomplishments are one reason the steam plant was listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

As a result of the planned implosion, which could take place as early as Nov. 15, Philadelphia will lose not only a landmark - living evidence of its railroading heritage - but also a structure that might have provided an incubator for a new, more up-to-date, industry.

Yet Amtrak can't even provide a straight answer about why the steam plant - along with a dormitory built for Pullman porters and a small outbuilding - must be demolished right now, nearly half a century after they were mothballed. The steam plant, of course, is contaminated with asbestos and PCBs, like all generating stations. It's not in the best condition either, which isn't surprising for a building that has been shuttered since 1964.

You could say similar things about other temples of industry around the city, including a couple of magnificent power stations on the Delaware waterfront, dozens of North Philadelphia factories, and the Reading Viaduct. We're only just starting to appreciate those hard-working structures and recognize that they're as worthy of preservation as monuments and grand houses. The hope is that if you let industrial buildings be, someone will come along with a new use.

Actually, just a few years ago, Amtrak's real estate department thought it had one for its steam plant. After clinching a deal for the Cira tower in 2002, both the plant and Pullman dormitory were proposed as anchors for an expanded office park on the station's west side, nestled in a crook of land below Drexel University's campus.

Consultants were hired and preliminary drawings were made. At the time, an Amtrak official led me on a tour of the area so I might understand the potential.

The real estate bust obviously put a damper on Amtrak's planning, but that doesn't mean the exercise wasn't worthwhile. For decades, Philadelphia has cherished the dream of developing the underused real estate around the train station and filling in the lifeless chasm that keeps downtown and the universities from becoming a unified whole. Some day, that dream and the real estate market will be aligned.

Train stations such as 30th Street are perfectly poised to attract knowledge industries eager to be close to transit, communication lines, and universities. One hurdle to development is the location of Amtrak's electrified rail lines along the Schuylkill. They require construction of a hugely expensive building platform. In contrast, the flat land to the west, where the steam plant stands for now, is practically ready for construction.

At the time the development plans were being considered, it seemed the steam plant's survival was guaranteed by its architectural pedigree. Because the plant was erected in preparation for the grand new rail terminal, the Pennsylvania Railroad assigned the design to the same architect: Graham, Anderson, Probst & White, the firm that took over from the famous Chicago architect and planner Daniel Burnham.

The steam plant didn't get the full limestone treatment, but the result still has the noble stature of a bank or library. The art deco trimmings must have made the workers who tended its turbines feel they were part of a great, city-building enterprise. An unusual, eight-sided stack, 21 feet in diameter, towered over the station. Its dramatic outline still holds its own on the west bank skyline, though now it's wedged between Cira and Drexel's new Millennium Hall tower.

The design for the Pullman dormitory, by the same architects, was modest, but its history is also intriguing. The building housed sleeping quarters for the mostly African American Pullman porters, the corps of uniformed railroad attendants who are credited by historians with laying the groundwork for the civil-rights movement. Those black porters were restricted to the basement, while other workers enjoyed better rooms on the upper floors. It's possible the first stirrings of protest began with conversations in that dank basement.

It's no wonder that, when Amtrak broached plans to demolish the structures, both the city and state historical commissions protested. City records show that the Historical Commission asked Amtrak to analyze the costs of retrofitting the buildings to lease to outside tenants.

Amtrak's response was that post-9/11 security concerns made it impossible to bring in outside tenants. The two commissions eventually acquiesced to Amtrak's plans. Yet, Amtrak's security concerns would imply that the railroad's land holdings could never be developed - a serious blow to Philadelphia. Somehow, those issues aren't stopping New York and Chicago from building in their rail yards.

Retrofitting industrial buildings like the steam plant requires greater creativity and perseverance than other projects, though not always more money. Preserving the industrial past is one way cities can remember their roots. The steam plant helped Philadelphia become a modern manufacturing metropolis. If Amtrak understood the potential of its rail yards, it could return the favor a second time.

 


Contact architecture critic Inga Saffron at 215-854-2213 or isaffron@phillynews.com.

Comments   
Posted 07:17 AM, 11/06/2009
Fernando08
When you view the fabricated NYC or Florentine shopping mall of Las Vegas, you realize, that as America grows from 300mil to 500mil over the next 50 years, there will be less and less in common for the population as a whole to see themselves. This may not seem like a problem until you watch the spectacle of political divisiveness. No, I don't think its healthy for ignorance to masquerade as constitutionally guaranteed speech. Being wrong will destroy us, and being at one another's throats all of the time will be a great way to accomplish that. Our history, the significant accomplishments bound into the landscape with stone and concrete and steel, leaves behind a message of who made today possible, and how we are bound together socially in this Democratic enterprise.
Posted 07:49 AM, 11/06/2009
lettie
It's sad that most American companies and city planners are so short-sighted that they willingly tear down these once-important buildings that make each area unique. Europe doesn't do this--one very good reason why tourists want to go there which boosts the local economy. Philadelphia is over 300 years old--it should reflect its history and not look as though it's a new city.
Posted 08:20 AM, 11/06/2009
l_destouches
i agree with lettie. while it may not be the coliseum, this building is a part of our urban history. i have certainly noticed it. i think fits nicely in the mix of buildings you see riding the train into 30th that provide a quick visual history of the city.
Posted 09:09 AM, 11/06/2009
dreinterests
Amtrak should reuse it for office space for some of its employees in 30th st or from more expensive office space in DC. It's cut off making the property of limited use for other players but Amtrak's office space IN 30th St could be attractive.
Posted 09:49 AM, 11/06/2009
Pelti
maybe I'm missing something, but aren't these building in the middle of a rail yard? How do you get people to them? Don't get me wrong, I hate the teardowns of Convention Hall and Cherry st Firehouse, and I'd love to see a new use found for the Peco Station in Port Richmond, but what could you have done here? Were they really going to put an office park at ground level, well below street level?
Posted 10:50 AM, 11/06/2009
AnthonyZul
I look at these buildings every day, twice a day in fact. Every time I look at them I marvel at them, and secretly wish that they would be fixed up and reused. I got hopeful when I saw the cranes, but now that I understand whats going on there I'm saddened by their loss... Amtrak and the city would love for a new neighborhood to spring up there... Now that neighborhood will be missing a major part of its history that could have grounded it in historic legitimacy..
Posted 10:54 AM, 11/06/2009
freesamuel
these are two drab industrial buildings stuck in the middle of a railyard. not sure I see the value of keeping them around on the off chance someone might find a use for them in the next 40-50 years. best to tear these eyesores down and move on.
Posted 11:05 AM, 11/06/2009
phillygoat
I know that smokestack as the physical manifestation of "the Drexel shaft", metaphorically manifested in any penny-pinching decision made by the administration. I am surprised however that the dormitory building isn't suitable for aquisition and retrofit by either Drexel or the outfit that converted the "Left Bank" apartment building.
Posted 11:14 AM, 11/06/2009
kelprod1
It is called progress. Tear it down and build anew. The free market works flawlessly, if it is allowed to let the old and failed disappear- and let the new supply fill the needed demand.
Posted 11:16 AM, 11/06/2009
Masswhole
I know - let's put a casino there, that will solve all our problems!
Posted 11:19 AM, 11/06/2009
Will Quale
Inga, I've heard from multiple sources this is scheduled for 7:30 AM, this Sunday (the 7th), with a rain date of the 15th. You say "In two weeks, it could be gone" and "which could take place as early as Nov. 15" -- has the demolition been delayed? Moreover, is it now uncertain? Please explain.
Posted 11:22 AM, 11/06/2009
cgsnipe77
demolition is being funded by the stimulus; of course they are going to spend that "sweet chedda" on something..
Posted 11:23 AM, 11/06/2009
Poppys
It was a fine structure and a fitting monument to that age. However it's time, like all buildings, has come. As is, it will now prevent any attempt at refurb of that immediate area. Thus it HAS to go. I too used to see it and occasionally wish it's walls could talk. But in the end, it will be like other great buildings - just an old tool and a footnote in history.
Comment removed.
Posted 11:29 AM, 11/06/2009
Edgley
All of these romantic ideas of preservation require a lot of capital that Amtrak simply does not have. As noted by the author, the building is loaded with asbestos and PCBs and may even be structurely unsound. Omens like that make it much more difficult to convince the higher-ups that keeping the buildings around will net any benefit to Amtrak. Unfortunately, it leaves only two viable options: (1) leave it as is which may please on-lookers, train riders, and preservationists, but ultimately just becomes a money pit or (2) demolish the building and put the land to better use and as something that will benefit the company as a whole. That is the economically sound approach to the issue.
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