Area's community-supported farms taking root

When Bob and Leda Muth started their business in Gloucester County eight years ago, there weren't many farmers like them.

They set up a community-supported-agriculture (CSA) enterprise in Williamstown that sold memberships to people interested in getting fresh produce every week.

Today, more than 400 members each spend $250 to $639 - depending on their plan - to pick up supplies of vegetables and fruits over 16 weeks. Hundreds of others are on a waiting list to join.

Across the region, a growing number of CSA farms, many of them certified organic, are taking root as consumers look for locally grown produce at prices that are often less than those in the supermarkets.

The Muth Family Farm is one of 81 subscription operations in New Jersey, where consumers pay up front and share the risks.

At least 379 community-supported-agriculture farms operate in Pennsylvania, along with 19 in Delaware, according to the first CSA statistics in the most recent U.S. Census of Agriculture, in 2007. Nationwide, 12,549 farms reported that they marketed their produce through CSAs.

"It was a struggle eight years ago," said Bob Muth, 53, of Pitman. "We were ahead of the curve. A lot of people weren't into organic produce then. The organic movement was just catching on."

Consumers became more conscious of their health and security after the 9/11 attacks in 2001, Muth said. "Our food system in the country was seen as an easy target of terrorists," he said. "People want to know where their food comes from. What's put on it? Is it safe and secure?"

In West Brandywine Township, Karen Vollmecke was among the CSA pioneers 11 years ago. Today, she has 160 members and a long waiting list.

CSAs "have gained in popularity tremendously over the last four or five years," said Vollmecke, 46. "It's a trust factor. People are worried about their food source."

The Muths' CSA started in 2001 with 35 members and increased to 100 in its second year, 200 in the third year, and 250 in the fourth year. It now has about 430 members.

"We grew gradually. That way we knew the commitment of people," said Leda Muth, 51. "This year, we have more demand than ever. I haven't noticed any problem because of the economy. People want their produce fresh."

Good nutrition - with a focus on vegetables - has been one of the priorities of first lady Michelle Obama. With the help of about two dozen fifth graders, she started a 1,100-square-foot White House vegetable garden in March.

Many who can't farm their own plot have been turning to CSAs such as the Muths' operation, where New Jersey Agriculture Secretary Douglas H. Fisher this week watched members come in for their weekly produce pickup.

They "buy into a farm for the opportunity to take home just-picked produce, and the chance to get to know the person who grew their food," Fisher said. "They also are looking for the experience of coming to a farm and seeing what life is like for a farmer during production time."

When Bob Muth got the idea to start the CSA, "he asked me if I thought it would fly," said Elaine Valerno, 70, an original CSA member who lives in Pitman. "I said, 'Absolutely.' We need vegetables and fruits that are less toxic. The chemicals are killing us."

Valerno and members such as Ardra Garvic of Williamstown said they save some of the produce for later - through canning or freezing.

But the produce is not the only draw for Valerno and Garvic. They said they felt good about supporting local farms, keeping dollars in the community, and discouraging development.

"We are community-oriented," said Garvic, who has a husband and three children. "I think the thing that keeps people involved are the bonds with people who live where you live. It connects you more with your community."

In Pennsylvania, the CSAs are similar to those in New Jersey, with "each operator making up his own rules," said Mark O'Neill, a spokesman for the Pennsylvania Farm Bureau, a trade association representing more than 44,000 farm and rural families.

"They set their own prices, and this way they can have some control. Some have [produce] pickups, and others deliver to the home."

Not all CSAs make the grade, though. One operation in Berks County that supplied vegetables to 600 families in the Philadelphia region suspended operations in 2006 after running out of money.

"Some go out of business, maybe because the long-term commitment wasn't there," said O'Neill. "Customers sign up and don't come back year after year.

"I've also seen some supermarkets putting in specific areas for produce grown in Pennsylvania and out of state. Some CSAs may be hurt by that."

For her part, though, Vollmecke of Vollmecke Orchards & CSA said she had seen the public's interest in community-supported agriculture only increasing. "More CSAs are popping up all the time."