Craig LaBan: Good afternoon, friends, and welcome back to the LaBan online grill, and it’s hotter than ever today. I’m sure many of you have questions about the AP story regarding the lawsuit against me by the CHOPS restaurant in Bala Cynwyd that ran across the country today, including the front of the Inquirer’s Daily Magazine section. If you’re interested. (We’ve also linked it above.) Feel free to send me your thoughts on the topic – unfortunately, due to the continuing litigation, I’m unable to respond.

What’s better, though, we have a special guest today to keep us occupied and informed on a much more enjoyable topic: WINE. My guest – a first ever for this chat – is David Moore, the co-founder of the Moore Bros. wine store in Pennsauken. And he is here to answer any questions you might have about your favorite vino or wine esoterica. There will be no Crumb Tracker today, to make space for all the questions already pouring in. We’re going to need a decanter to let them all breathe. Let's go!

Craig: Welcome, David. Thanks for being here. Your store has been such an amazing addition to the local wine scene, but I can only imagine that opening an innovative wine store just across the river from Pennsylvania’s big, bottle-bumbling state store system must have been a retailer’s dream. On the flip side, how has it gone with your new store in New York City, where the competition is considerably more tough?

David Moore: Actually, New York's been fine. We're not in the same business as Sherry-Lehman, or for that matter, the "State Sores," so we find our audience, or they find us, and we grow. We started out with about 1,500 customers in New York who used to drive down to our NJ location - now their commute's shorter ... mine however ...

Patrick: A question that ties into both Craig and Dave's respective areas of expertise. With the strong BYO scene in Philly and S. Jersey what do you feel the restaurant's obligation is in regards to providing "proper" glassware, and your thoughts on BYOGlasses.

Craig: Patrick, I really do believe that good glassware can effect the flavor of a wine, but I’m not yet one of those folks showing up at the local BYO with a wicker basket of silk-wrapped Riedel. My casual observation is that there are a lot of new BYOs out there that are really providing some better glassware, and that’s a good thing. It's better than a juice glass.

David Moore: Partick, my expectations differ depending on which restaurant I'm in. Grilled octopus at Dmitri's - the little wine glasses are fine - heck with that kind of food in the South of France, a water tumbler works. At Matyson and Nunzio's, I appreciate the larger glasses. If you're particular, you can bring your own glasses as well, just be prepared for some odd looks from the staff and other diners.

Django Fett: Craig, I had terrible Fish and Chips the other night at a restaurant that shall remain nameless. The fish was miserable, dry and chewy. However, the owner of the restaurant pointed out to me that it was not, in fact, fish and chips, rather it was actually a fried fish sandwich without bread. I feel much better now.

Craig: Now Django, I think I can see where you're going with that. And I will chuckle, but you'll still get a no comment from me. [Editor's note: See lawsuit story.]

Craig: David, why has Moore Bros. chosen to focus on Old World wines? Don't they make good wine in California, Australia, and South America?

David Moore: Craig, re: Old World/New World: Good wine is made everywhere. In fact more, bad wine is made in the "Old World" than good wine. But wine in the "Old World" is different than "New World" wine. In the Old World, wine is a reflection of old, local cultures, and agricultural possibilities. In the New World, there is no 2,000-year-old tradition tied into wine. Wine here is more "commerce" than culture. We chase our own personal "muse."

Tonyjlive: Craig, I know you dont always like these types of questions but ... if you had to choose one place to go for lunch in the Graduate Hospital area, where would it be? I ask this after struggling with places to take friends and family when they visit. Thanks.

Craig: Tonyjlive, you're right, I don't generally do these kind of questions, but I will anyhow. It really depends what kind of lunch you're aiming for, but there are a number of options. Roberto Cafe on South Street is a great option for Italian trattoria, and LaVa down the street is a nice possibility for something lighter. There is also Cafe Lutecia at Lombard and 23d, which is as close to a French cafe (great salads, brie sandwiches and croque monsieurs) that we have. There is also good Turkish at Divan on 22d just north of Washington. Also, don't forget the good pub fare/burgers at Grace Tavern. Not sure if any of those are fancy enough for out-of-town guests, but you can also head north to Rittenhouse, which isn't far.

Craig: David, a two-part question: (1) What is your assessment, if possible, of the recent changes in the leadership of the PLCB [Pennsylvania Liquor Control Board] and the new regime now in charge? (2) Let’s say Gov. Rendell comes to his senses and names a wine person – like you – the new chairman, what would you do (short of privatization) to fix our state wine system? (OK, P.J. Stapleton is already the chairman, but he has professed little real interest in wine.)

David Moore: Craig, part 1: I'm not sure of exactly what happened with Jonathan Newman, although the recent article in Philly Mag sheds a new light on the subject. I never thought much of the "value-proposition" of "Chairman's Selections," since many of those wines were largely "blind-labeled" goods that weren't part of the wineries' normal lineup.

David Moore: Craig, on part 2: A good first start for improving the system would be to have someone in charge that really knows wine, not just someone who wants to be an important "player" in the "industry." But I'm not sure it's possible to run such a huge organization with a focus on high quality.

Paulie Walnuts: Hi Craig. Now that we're in the midst of the wonderful blueberry season, who do you think makes the best blueberry pancakes??

Craig: Paulie Walnuts, I'm answering this question, in part, because you have one of the best screen names this chat has seen. In addition, I happen to have eaten two of the most amazing blueberry pancakes in recent memory down the Shore. One is at the new Gilchrist's Offshore, the Galloway Twp. branch of the AC institution (they're rebuilding) - it's a great breakfast place off the White Horse Pike, about 5 miles west of the GS parkway. Also, the blueberry pancakes at Brown's in Ocean City on the boardwalk are so filled with fruit, they practically explode. Great start to a beach day.

Craig: David - what are the possibilities of someday seeing the state system privatized?

David Moore: Craig, the State Store System going away? Most of the population of the state doesn't want it to change, for "moral" or "religious" reasons. There is no political will to change the system. Between Pittsburgh and Philly lies "Alabama," as James Carville once said.

Django Fett: I have two nerdy wine glass stories. (1) I once brought crystal champagne flutes to Django during the Amy Oxeley era to drink a bottle of Dom Perignon we got as a gift, knowing ahead of time they didn't have good champagne glasses. I felt a little embarassed but it was worth it. (2) On my wedding night my wife and I stayed at the Four Seasons Philly, and we brought a crazy good bottle of red, and they refused to bring us up stemware from the Fountain or a decanter to our room. I mean, they REFUSED, and we drank it out of crappy little water glasses in the room. We didn't "need" the good glasses, but it was surprising given that hotel's reputation that they couldn't accommodate us.

Craig: Django Fett - Nothing wrong with bringing good glasses for a good bottle to Django, that was the restaurant's greatest flaw in the Olexy era. As for the Four Seasons, I admit that's a bit shocking. Don't they have fine Austrian crystal water glasses in those rooms?

David Moore: Django Fett: I'm surprised to hear that about the Four Seasons. Must have been an "off-night" for someone.

Tom: Yo, you have a wine guy there and you are asking questions about blueberry pancakes! Get with it!

Craig: Ok, then, Tom. Why don't you ask David a question?

Dean: This question is for David Moore – Hey David, on a recent trip to the South of France I was told by some wine makers that the appellation control for Cote du Provence was forcing vineyards away from the traditional Carignan varietal in favor of more commercially viable Cabernet Sauvignon as the base for regional wines. It seems that the appellation is more concerned with sales than integrity of regional producers. What is your take on this? Have you heard this from other old world wine makers?

David Moore: Dean, oh, don't get me started on the French! They're trying to figure out how to compete with the "aussies" on the Aussies terms. I guarantee they'll lose out this one. Provence grows (for nearly 2,000 years) Grenache, Carignane, Syrah, Cincault, and a bunch of other wonderful grape. If they concentrated on only making good wine (rather than oceans of bad wine) they could trade on their good name, and not have to worry about competition from the New World.

matt: David, is there such a thing as a decent wine under $10?

Craig: Hi Matt - David has some interesting things to say about this. In fact, that's how this whole guest chat idea got started. He emailed me following a recent recommendation of mine for a $6 bottle of St.-Chinian (Maison L'Aiglon) that I found quite drinkable. Not sure if he thought it was junk, but that got us started on the topic...

David Moore: Matt, good wine is possible in the "Old World," for under 10 bucks, but that's only because there's more wine there, and it's not valued as highly. Always look for a label that has an actual person's name on it as the winemaker, and you'll have a shot at finding something good.

Gregg: David, I was a huge fan of the Chairman Selection when Jonathan Newman was running the show. I am a bit of a wine novice, but I thought the wines I was getting at around $15.00 were pretty good. Was I just deceived by good marketing (i.e. them saying it was worth $35.00) or was it really a bargain? What does "blind-labelled" really mean? Thanks for the clarification.

David Moore: Gregg, I've made "brands" out in California myself ... blending cuvees, making up labels ... I've been in this for some time. It doesn't necessarily mean the wine's no good, but one should always be wary of claims that offer anything of "quality" at half-price.

Craig: David, I agree that there were some weird things going on at the end with all those specially-labeled bottles just for the Chairman Selection program. But I've tasted many of those discounted bottles and many impressed me. In some cases, those wines were discounted for business reasons - distributor changed, overproduced in one vintage, etc. ... In many ways, that program has made Pa. the biggest remainders bin wine store in the country. Sometimes you get stuck in the remainders bin with a dud. But often, there are plenty of gems.

Matt: Thanks - that sounds like great advice, but could you explain what you mean by "actual person's name?" (i.e., does Craig's bottle of St.-Chinian count?)

David Moore: Matt, look for the phrase "Mis en Boutielle par 'Joe Blow' Proprietaire" or "Mis en Boutielle au Domaine." Both phrases make reference to the fact that the wine was framed by a human being, and made either by or under the direction of a human being who is willing to take responsibility for what's in the bottle, and back it up with his family's name. (Rather than a bottle of something produced as a "brand," in a corporate marketing meeting.)

brett: What do you believe is the best way to increase one's knowledge about all aspects of wine? Are there any good books that you would recommend to someone looking to increase their knowledge about wine?

David Moore: Brett, drink good wines, and read, read, read. At a very young age (before it was legal for me) that's what I did over 30 years ago. The best authors were Michael Broadbent and Hugh Johnson. These days, I'd suggest anything by Jancis Robinson as well. But also, look into the history of the "Old World" wine regions as well. You'll learn a lot about why wines taste the way they taste.

Craig: David - I had this interesting discussion with Angelo Gaja on the topic. The nebbiolo master was concerned with rise of "commercial" wines and the homogenization of flavor that they bring to the world market - versus the 'original wines" like his barbaresco, which set the benchmarks that commercial wines either try to emulate or overlook. The question is, though, are commercial wines always BAD? What's wrong with a good Aussie 'fruit bomb' from time-to-time?

David Moore: Craig, just like "POP" music isn't always bad, nor are commercial wines. I just like to know the difference . ... particularly when commercial wines are being sold. There is an implied contract between a wine buyer and a wine merchant, that the wine is something special - different than "vodka," a product of tradition, hard work, and careful agriculture. I'd like to think we honor this.

Peter: David, shouldn't that be "Joe Bleu"?

Craig: David, c'mon. You seem a bit obsessed with Old World wisdom. I love those classic wines, too, but there must be some good things coming out of California and Oregon, etc.? I know you're already touched on this, but I need to push deeper. There's a lot of good enological studying to be done in California wine centers like UC-Davis. ... and some very inspired winemakers out there, too. Is it just a matter of expanding your shelf space and finding producers that fit the Moore Bros. vision?

David Moore: Craig, there are many winemakers in California and Washington, and Oregon who make great wines. I'm friends with many. Most of the people who make wine that we'd be interested in representing, sell their wine to their customers at retail prices, and don't need me.

Craig: David, what do you think is a reasonable mark-up over cost for a bottle of wine in a Philadelphia restaurant?

David Moore: Craig, a restaurant that goes out of its way to pay someone to run a good wine program, is entitled to a reasonable mark-up for the effort. Unfortunately, not many restaurants HAVE interesting wine programs, which is one of the many reasons we have so many BYOs in Philly. Twice cost is a reasonable markup.

Craig: David, we’re going to have to wrap up our conversation soon for today. You’ve been an excellent artisan and nicely temperature-controlled chat guest, if I do say so myself. So, as we’re heading into a conclusion, how about a few suggestions of great Old World wines for our New World holiday? Say we are grilling either burgers, steaks, salmon or ribs. Which affordable bottles would you suggest?

David Moore: I like roses with grilled food - not "white zin," but REAL rose from warm, coastal climates with summer "picnic" foods. And with grilled foods I like wines from warm climates - whites with a little roundness, and reds with a touch of spice, soft tannins, and forward fruit. These wines take on grilled flavors well, whether the flesh be meat, fish, or fowl. These wines would include southern Italian and French regions such as Frascati, Soave, Provence, and Puglia.

Tom: I have been in some Philly restaurants where the price was marked up 4 times the state store price.

David Moore: Tom, I've seen it too!

Craig: Tom is correct that some local restaurants have taken egregious mark-ups in the past. The big hotels are the worst. That is one of the major factors in the popularity of the BYO scene, as David said. I believe up to 2.5 times is acceptable for Philly (2 times is common elsewhere in the country), but 3-plus has become the norm. Folks should go to the PLCB's website to check for prices to see what restaurants really pay. Their browser is one of the state system's best assets.

Craig: Well, that about wraps it up. David, you were an excellent guest. Thanks so much for coming. Hopefully, this won't be the last time a guest joins us for the weekly chat. I'll definitely be back next week, solo at least, to answer all your non-wine questions. (Unless you have some left.) Until then, be well, and may you all eat and drink something worth bragging about!

David Moore: Craig: Thanks for having me. It's a whole new way to communicate. Thanks for the invite, and keep up the good work.

Craig: Cheers!