Good Taste
Signature satay Hardena Waroeng Surabaya is open, though it may look from the curb as though nothing's cooking inside this tiny corner storefront at Hicks and Moore.
Signature satay
Hardena Waroeng Surabaya is open, though it may look from the curb as though nothing's cooking inside this tiny corner storefront at Hicks and Moore.
Crack open the door to Ena Wijojo's modest luncheonette, though, and the exotic smells of Indonesia drift out on a breeze warmed with coconut, hot sambal chili, and tangy dark soy.
The aromas alone are enough to dull the squawk of Jerry Springer on the inevitable dining room TV - but the flavors will carry you away at bargain prices. For $8, a tour of the daily-changing steam table could dip into garlicky collards, coconut-curried beef rendang, or mashed jackfruit so savory with palm sugar, coconut and spice, it could be mistaken for shreds of meat.
Hardena's signature dish, though, is the tender chicken satay, which is both saucier and more mysterious than most Thai versions commonly seen. Each skewer comes beneath a creamy flow of peanut sauce piqued by garlic and darkened by kecap manis, the palm-sugared soy that lends an irresistible Southeast Asian funk to this surprising South Philly nook.
- Craig LaBan
Chicken satay, $6, Hardena Waroeng Surabaya, 1754 S. Hicks St.
(at W. Moore), 215-271-9442.