More important, Snackbar has itself a rising star in 27-year-old chef John Taus (ex-Zahav, James, Tangerine, Bliss), whose knack for updating familiar comforts can be magnetic, whether it's popcorn tossed in brown butter and fleur de sel, killer pierogies with chive cream and caviar, or the croquette of crispy pig trotters and chanterelles over jalapeno grits. His best dish, though, a flaky schmaltz-infused pastry round of chicken pot pie deconstructed - just enough - with a rich smear of creamy sage gravy on the side, is inspired by his own Allentown mom, Mary Beth. It tastes like Snackbar's kitchen finally feels at home.
- Craig LaBan
Chicken pot pie with sage cream, $10, at Snackbar, 253 S. 20th St., 215-545-5655.
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