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Cheese of the Month
There is a reason that Oregon's Rogue Creamery last year became the first American cheesemaker to export raw-milk cheese to England. Its various blues are stunningly good, with an elusive Roquefort-like mix of luscious creaminess and vividly veined tang that few Americans have achieved. (Rogue's use of raw cow's milk, as opposed to Roquefort's traditional sheep's milk, is one important distinction.)
But Rogue's products are pricey, about $30 a pound. So DiBruno Bros.' current discount on Rogue's Crater Lake blue ($22.99) caught my eye. DiBruno cheesemonger Richard-Luis Morillo calls Crater Lake his favorite "burger blue" because its bright acidity pairs well with beef. But I love this creamy curd in a schmear across rustic toast. The addition of Danish-style mold gives Crater Lake an even more robust tang than their other cheeses, making this a blue lover's blue worth getting to know.
Rogue Creamery's Crater Lake Blue cheese, $22.99 a pound at two DiBruno Bros. locations: 1730 Chestnut St., 215-665-9220; 930 S. 9th St., 215-922-2876.
- Craig LaBan
