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Posted on Thu, Jul. 3, 2008

GoodTaste

Superior sub

If it's hard to imagine why someone would mail-order a tuna sub to Alaska or Hawaii, then you haven't been to Dino's. The whipped tuna salad at this Margate institution is so inexplicably simple yet delicious, it's no wonder it's become one of the Jersey Shore's signature sandwiches since founder Joe Tozzi introduced it in the early '70s.

Leo Heintzelman, Tozzi's protege (and Dino's current owner), still makes the salad in small batches even though he sells more than 300 pounds of it on a midsummer day. Stuffed into a distinctively crusty Italian roll from Formica's Bakery in Atlantic City, it really needs little embellishment. One exception is the "tuna and chips" – the addition of crushed potato chips at the bottom of the roll beneath a layer of lettuce is a stroke of luncheonette genius.

Lucky shoobies can stop by for a 10-inch "half" of tuna and chips ($6.50) or a 20-inch whole ($13), and save on the overnight shipping that some Dino's devotees actually use, paying as much as $55 a sub.

Dino's Sub & Pizza Shop, 8016 Ventnor Ave., Margate, 609-822-6602.

- Craig LaBan