MICHAEL S. WIRTZ / Staff Photographer
Walter Staib, the chef at City Tavern, prepares to cut an inside round from a leg of veal. He was cooking for a segment of his "A Taste of History" public television series.
On the Side
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Bleeding over tradition
Knifework, Veal Olives, and Chef Staib at the nexus of colonial cookery and TV.
3. Heat one tablespoon of the butter in a small skillet over medium heat. Add the shallots and cook for two minutes, until golden brown. Reserve.
4. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a paddle attachment (or a food-processor bowl), mix the reserved egg yolks, cooked shallots, cream, chives, tarragon, and mustard into a paste. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
5. Fill a pastry bag with the mixture, leaving enough room to close and twist the top of the bag. Pipe the mixture into the egg-white halves. Dot each egg-white half with a piece of the remaining one tablespoon of butter, sprinkle with paprika, and bake for five to eight minutes, until browned on top. Serve with mustard sauce if desired.
- From The City Tavern Cookbook, by Walter Staib with Paul Bauer (Running Press, 2009)
Note: Nearly every colonial household owned at least one hen, so eggs were plentiful in supply and prepared in numerous ways. This rich and lively cousin to deviled eggs was inspired by a recipe for "Stuffed Eggs" written by Martha Washington's sister, Anna Maria Dandridge, in 1756. Traditionally, the 18th-century chef would have roasted the eggs in the hot ashes of the kitchen fireplace, but cooking them in boiling water produces the same result.
Per serving (without mustard sauce): 164 calories, 9 grams protein, 4 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram sugar, 13 grams fat, 268 milligrams cholesterol, 207 milligrams sodium, trace dietary fiber.
Mustard Sauce
Makes about 11/2 cups
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
2 medium onions, finely chopped
3 medium shallots, finely chopped
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
2 cups white wine
1/2 cup cider vinegar
2 tablespoons tomato paste
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
Salt and freshly ground white pepper
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley, for serving
