Mirror, Mirror: Art Museum salutes style icon Tom Marotta
To hold a fashion exhibit featuring contemporary red carpet-worthy gowns at a renowned art museum in honor of a retail executive is a rarity.
But so was Tom Marotta, Saks Fifth Avenue's former vice president of couture.
Marotta, who died more than two years ago of cancer, followed his gut instead of the status quo, winning the hearts of couture designers and the more than 300 clients he served. He helped make Marc Jacobs, Zac Posen, and Peter Som fashion celebrities with both local fashionistas and Saks customers nationwide. And the silver-haired salesman was pretty good friends with well-known designers like Carolina Herrera, Ralph Lauren, and Philadelphia's own Ralph Rucci, none of whom is quick to share his or her time (or collections) with anyone.
So to honor this Philadelphia fashion giant, 17 of the biggest names in the industry each donated one evening-wear piece to the Philadelphia Museum of Art's permanent collection. The dazzling exhibit - "Inspiring Fashion: Gifts From Designers Honoring Tom Marotta" - opened with a fancy reception last week on the second floor of the costume and textile gallery in the Perelman Building, and will be up through summer. It was packed with Rittenhouse Square's heavy hitters, including Kate Egan, owner of Egan Day; Stefanie Lutz, owner of Adresse (the boutique is celebrating its 10th anniversary Thursday); and the area's fashion czarina, Joan Shepp.
"Tom was such a class act," Shepp said. "There will be no one else like him."
What makes this exhibit extra special is that the pieces on display are contemporary. One piece, a fiery-red pleated chiffon gown, is from the fall 2008 Valentino collection. A Zac Posen floor-length goddess dress in cotton-candy pink was in stores this spring and evoked early-millennium Jennifer Lopez.
Marotta was one of the very first buyers of Badgley Mischka's collection when he was at Nan Duskin, the premier downtown designer store that closed in 1994. Both James Mischka and Mark Badgley were at the reception. The design duo donated a brilliant sequined gown from their 2009 resort collection. "He was one of the few we trusted because he knew the quality, the product, and the customers," Mischka said.
The display's oldest pieces, from 1995, include an Oscar de la Renta cocktail dress that shows the designer's knack for highlighting his clients' super-tiny waistlines. The full skirt is covered with rows of ribbon ruffles and is poufed to the hilt, thanks to five underskirts.
Another from that year is an evening gown courtesy of Ottavio and Rosita Missoni. The slinky sequined silk jersey gown is a fine example of the couple's iconic wavy knit stripes.
My favorite is the silver fox-trimmed Herrera gown that looks like a trench coat with a double-breasted front and sparkling buttons. (Who says you have to be cold to be classy?) Other must-sees include a fringed burnout velvet evening coat by British designer Zandra Rhodes and a Nancy Gonzalez crocodile bag covered with dyed cock feathers in brown, green, and purple. Marotta was one of the first people to make me hip to Gonzalez.
"It was like he knew," said Saks president Ron Frasch, in Philadelphia for the opening. "He was brilliant. There aren't that many Tom Marottas left in the world with that kind of eye and talent."
The exhibit also features a video with designers' recollections of working with Marotta. And let's not forget the caricature on display of Marotta, courtesy of former Bill Blass designer Michael Vollbracht. You can duplicate that kind of glimmer only for a person you know and love.
The Saks Fifth Avenue in Bala Cynwyd, Marotta's home for more than 14 years, approached the museum with the idea of an exhibit soon after Marotta's death. It took Kristina Haugland, associate curator of costume and textiles for the museum, until now to both secure the pieces and make sure they fit the mannequins. Sample sizes for tall, skinny models have a hard time fitting mannequins specifically made for centuries-old clothing. Last week's grand-opening event raised about $60,000 that will go directly toward supporting the museum's costume and textiles department.
Before he entered the world of fashion, Marotta, born in South Philadelphia, worked in the 1950s and '60s for singers Fabian and Frankie Avalon.
His first stab at retail was at the Blum Store in Bala Cynwyd. Then he took a job at Nan Duskin, where he worked his way up from tie buyer to senior vice president. In 1994, Marotta became vice president of couture at Saks Fifth Avenue.
Although his taste won him the most accolades, Marotta also is remembered for his friendliness and generosity of spirit. He was one of the first fashion insiders I met when I moved to Philadelphia seven years ago. And during my inaugural year covering the fashion shows under the Bryant Park tents, he let me sit next to him at the Michael Kors show - in the front row.
And in the fashion world, kindness often is harder to come by than access - that alone is deserving of a beautiful exhibit.
Contact fashion writer Elizabeth Wellington at 215-854-2704 or ewellington@phillynews.com.





