- Elizabeth Wellington's fashion column
- Looking for your clothing brand? Might need a map
- Which brands are where in shifting fashion world
- Curvy jeans on a lean budget
- A bounty of boots and bags
- Snake slithers fashion forward
- Keep cold at bay with winter's stylish warmers
- Flights of fashion
- TV togs: Retailers and popular shows are teaming up to bring you series-inspired fashions
- Bomber jackets take off
- Fashion Q&A: How to mix, match travel wardrobe
- Fashion Q&A: Think comfort when buying boots for fall
- The power tweens
- Adopt a less tame fall look with faux fur
- Jenice Armstrong: Morehouse bans high heels, handbags... & jeans?
- Christian Siriano: Fierce fashion
- New underwear designs put squeeze on men's midsections
- Mirror, Mirror: Enjoying the freedom of locks
- 'Coco': Style & substance
- Philly vogue
- Fashion Q&A: Dress-code definitions needed
- Men's fashion going 'Mad' on New York runways
- Mirror, Mirror: A leg up for pants
- Mirror, Mirror: Investment pieces now must wow
- Mirror, Mirror: A resale boutique when and where it's needed
- Geek chic fashion brings new respect for nerds
- Mirror, Mirror: Investment pieces now must wow
- Mirror, Mirror: We still must have 'it,' though 'it' has changed
- Fashion's more hard labor than laughs, film shows
- Retrofit: Designers looking back for forward fashions
- Mirror, Mirror: '80s' Esprit returns - but it's a new millennium
- Fashion Q&A
- Some trends translate to not-quite-model sizes
- Sharapova, Blake make fashion a factor on court
- Take your pick from top 10 fall trends
- Advice for executive mates, from one to another
- Opposites: Attractive
- Viewers are 'Mad' for show's vintage fashion
- Michelle Obama's style
- Boudoir photography
- White Hot Fashion
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Mirror, Mirror: We still must have 'it,' though 'it' has changed
The recession hit the "it" accessory hard.
But that doesn't mean "it" items are dead. Today's must-haves simply are going from in-your-face (remember the $25,000 Birkin bag or $1,200 Manolo Blahniks?) to below-the-radar, varying from town to town, boutique to boutique, and shopper to shopper.
"There will always be items that will be sought-after," said Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst for NPD Group. "It's just that the definition of 'it' items are changing. It used to be spelled with a capital I-T; now it's a lowercase i-t."
Until recently, we had deemed an accessory worthy of "it" status if it was priced high enough to be just beyond the reach of most people, exciting to fashion insiders, and widely available.
The "it" concept started in the 1950s and included the quilted Chanel 2.55 bag, the Hermés scarf, and the Hermés Kelly bag - named for Philadelphia's own Grace Kelly. These items certainly were high-priced and high-status, but with distribution methods not what they are today, the pieces couldn't penetrate to the masses, according to Clare Sauro, curator for Drexel University's historic costume collection.
Then, in 1997, came the Fendi Baguette, a clutch-sized bag that came in multiple colors with a removable chain strap. Deemed important by those plugged into the fashion world, the bags, costing more than $1,000, were considered quite exclusive. And then, just as the Internet was starting to shrink the world, the industry's ability to mass-produce and easily distribute goods catapulted Fendi into the "it" realm.
"They were available," Sauro said. "Shoppers could get them in Paris, London, and Tokyo whereas [before] you had to travel to Italy to get Fendi."
These days, Blahnik, Louboutin, and Dior are household names. With the economy in the tank, it's clear why shelling out the equivalent of a monthly mortgage payment for a pocketbook, or better yet a scarf, is a no-no.
But what's also blamed for the change in this season's "it" culture is access. Sure, anyone can satisfy a fashion craving by buying online, but there are fewer items out there to order: Fashion houses can no longer afford to manufacture extra products expecting fashionistas to snatch them all up. And if people can't buy it, it can never become "it."
This season, Joan Shepp, owner of Center City's Joan Shepp boutique, ordered four medium-sized Givenchy Pandora-style bags (three black and one brown). The bag retailed for $1,750, but within a few days, the four were gone. Then friends of friends came to the store requesting one.
"I couldn't believe how fast those bags sold out," Shepp said. "And when I tried to get more, I couldn't."
"It" status stopped dead in its tracks.
That means today's "it" item must be exclusive and well-timed. And, some experts say, the emphasis on high prices has been replaced with a consumer desire to own something well-made and unique. Buyers also want to connect emotionally with their purchase.
People love the idea of getting items that only a few people know about, says Matthew Izzo, owner of the Center City boutique of the same name. Izzo mentioned a line of gold layered necklaces he carries by Cristina V.
As a result, a lot of small labels are getting attention, many of which don't have the budget to be mass-produced but have grown enough in popularity to be noticed by the fashion public.
In Philadelphia, we're talking about Craig Arthur von Schroeder's Commonwealth Proper line based in Northern Liberties and Faye Sevilla Smith's label Sevilla Smith that she plans to sell from her Old City boutique. (Think M.A.C. before Estée Lauder bought it, or Juicy Couture before Liz Claiborne took over.)
So, Cohen of NPD says, ask 100 retailers what this fall's "it" item is, and you'll get 106 answers.
Leave it to fashion to keep things simple.
I spoke with five of the area's hippest retailers and asked them to identify this season's "it" item.
Matthew Izzo of Matthew Izzo, 151 N. Third St.
GAR-DE leather jacket, $460. "This New York-based company
is underground, but their quality is amazing," Izzo said. "People are shopping for classic styles, but this jacket is not only classic. It has an edge."
Joan Shepp of Joan Shepp,
1616 Walnut St.
Charles Gray by Helene Berman fedora, $135, available in black and charcoal gray. "These hats are comfortable and the style is familiar to people."
Andrea Chila of Pileggi Boutique, 715 Walnut St.
The Olivia bag in claret, by
MZ Wallace, $345. "It's a great shoulder bag and it fits perfectly under the arm. And it's a good purchase in this economy because you get a lot of quality and a fantastic-looking bag."
Dana Bank of Town Home,
1616 Walnut St.
Dog-tag jewelry by Heather Moore, priced from $150. "It's about connecting with someone. These pieces mean a lot to people. People aren't after large hoops and rhinestones anymore. They want things that speak to their soul."
Debbie Dickson of Claire Dickson, 545 Germantown Pike, Lafayette Hill
Jocelyn scarf, $65. "These scarves are appealing to customers because they really update an outfit," Dickson said. "In jewel tones they bring out
the face and look great with
the boyfriend jacket."
Tune in to an online chat with fashion writer Elizabeth Wellington at 11 a.m. tomorrow at www.philly.com/philly/
blogs/mirrorimage. Contact her at 215-854-2704 or ewellington@phillynews.com.
