Drink
The French region of Alsace is one of my favorite sources for autumn white wine drinking. Showy grapes like gewurztraminer and pinot gris take on an especially golden hue, with exotic floral aromas that border on lushness and spice, and are a fine complement to the richer flavors of cold-weather cooking.
But I consider Alsatian riesling to be the region's most intriguing grape, because it hints at that opulent richness but typically ends up being considerably drier than its close German riesling cousins just across the border from France.
This affordable house-label riesling from Helfrich, widely available in Pennsylvania for $14.99, is a splendid example. It still has a honeyed whiff of sweet peaches on the nose, but on the tongue it's all green-apple snap, with a cutting tartness and mineral finish that make it a perfect wine for food. Think dishes with smoky tones (like salmon or bacon quiche), as well as Asian preparations with a sweet, spicy or gingery sauce.
- Craig LaBan
Helfrich Riesling from Alsace (code: 005604): $14.99 in Pennsylvania.
