Craig LaBan

I joined the Inquirer as its restaurant critic in 1998, after a stint covering the food beat for the Times-Picayune in New Orleans. Having eaten about 500 restaurant meals a year here ever since, I never cease to be amazed by the diversity and sophistication of Philadelphia's kitchens. To travel from its many authentic ethnic neighborhoods to the gastronomic temples of Walnut Street to its beery gastropubs, cozy BYOBs and multitude of greasy-but-great steak joints, is to know this town delivers satisfaction at every level of the food chain. Including online dish.

Live chat: Join Craig at 2 p.m. on Tuesdays in the Inquirer chatroom. See latest chats by Craig and others.

Book: The Philadelphia Inquirer Restaurant Guide is available through our online store.

Email Craig at claban@phillynews.com

Drink

Posted 09/02/2008

Power wines like Châteauneuf-du-Pape don't come around cheap too often, usually priced from the mid-$30s on up. But bargains can be had by those willing to consider bottles from solid years that were unlucky enough to be overshadowed by a celebrated subsequent vintage. Such was the case with many worthy 2004s when France's vaunted 2005s stormed store shelves. And so this 2004 Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Les Sinards," discounted by $14 in Pennsylvania, is a bottle worth paying attention to.

The seviche special of fluke draped over sweet watermelon and tiny charred tomatoes comes with a frozen “snow” of shaved goat cheese granita.

10 Arts

The new bistro brightens the Ritz-Carlton lobby, even if the menu seems a bit tentative.

By Craig LaBan, Inquirer Restaurant Critic

Posted 08/29/2008

Dressing down can be a tricky affair, especially for famous French chefs and fancy hotels. When it doesn't go smoothly, it can be as awkward as watching a rich uncle step out in tube socks and loafers.

Devil's Den 08/22/2008: This gastropub, like others of its ilk, has the pub part down pat. The gastro part - the food - can be a disappointment.

By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic

Every great trend hits a moment of sudden saturation when the buzz of novelty wears off and expectations ratchet up to a higher level. That time has come for the gastropub, the exuberant hybrid of hipster bar and neighborhood restaurant where craft beers coexist with serious cooking.
Maia 08/08/2008: With a cafe, an eat-in market, a bistro and a fine-dining room, the Feury brothers' complex in Villanova delivers excellence on a grand scale.

By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic

It isn't often a restaurant feels compelled to provide a map and bullet-point directory to help navigate its inner workings. Then again, it isn't often that the shell of a former supermarket is transformed into a maze of gastronomic ambition the size of Maia.
Memphis Taproom 08/01/2008: A Kensington bar goes gastro with pub food and prices done right, and craft beers for anyone, near or far, who loves them.

The beer geeks can be relied upon to travel. Put a Green Flash IPA on draft, a Rogue tripel, or a Fuller's Porter, and they will come. Thirsty.
Les Bons Temps 07/25/2008: Chef John Mims brings Big Easy to Center City, and the good times roll with openers and desserts; entrees need some tuning up.

By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic

It doesn't take much imagination to step from the Center City sidewalk into a piece of the French Quarter. Just give a little blink as you stroll down 12th Street north of Sansom, pull the door handle, and head into Les Bons Temps.
Drink 07/25/2008: Cans can be beautiful when they're filled with Pikeland Pils. This stellar golden brew from Sly Fox in Royersford has firmly established itself in my fridge as one of my favorite local summer beers.
Time 07/18/2008: In the old Ludwig's Garden space, there are a beer bar, an updated chop house, and an absinthe lounge, all under one roof. The sum of the parts? A pretty nice threesome.

By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic

With a turn of the silvery little spigot, a stream of chilled water pours down from the elegant glass "fountain" tank perched on our table at Time.
A Frenchman's wine finds 07/18/2008: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic

It isn't always easy for a wine-loving Frenchman to drink within the borders of Pennsylvania's state-run wine system. True, the state's catalog of French wines is massive by most measures, with more than 2,200 retail selections covering most major regions and producers. But Amaury de Condé still couldn't get his hands on many of the quirky, artisan gems he would happen a
Pasta shells and more at Shore 07/11/2008: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic

Frank Sinatra, may he rest in peace, must be the patron saint of spaghetti. It's the only way to explain why every red-gravy joint on the East Coast has a shrine to the man, from the portraits of a fedora-topped young Frank to the endlessly looped soundtrack of his crooner hits that are as ubiquitous as little shakers of grated parmesan cheese.
Drink 07/11/2008: The vibrant Spanish white called Albariño has begun to capture the imagination of winemakers around the world, so it's little surprise that intriguing renditions have appeared on Pennsylvania shelves from California (Bonny Doon's Ca' Del Solo, $18.99) to Uruguay (Bouza, $14.99).
Pearls of great taste 07/04/2008: The ultimate oyster turns up in Avalon, and more magically memorable morsels and meals are making it a perfect-plus summer down the Shore.

By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic

Craig LaBan I never thought I'd taste a better Jersey oyster than the one I ate plain a few years ago while standing thigh-deep in the Delaware Bay. The oyster was plucked from the cold fishery waters and shucked on the spot.

The ultimate oyster turns up in Avalon, and more magically memorable morsels and meals are making it a perfect-plus summer.

Join the Inquirer's food critic for his annual review of Shore dining.

MORE STORIES

Drink 07/04/2008
Kaffa Crossing 06/27/2008: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Swallow 06/20/2008: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Drink 06/20/2008
Drink 06/13/2008
Pearl 06/13/2008: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Rouget 06/06/2008: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Drink 06/06/2008
Dream Cuisine 05/30/2008: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Sonam 05/23/2008: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Marigold Kitchen 05/14/2008: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Jasper 05/07/2008: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Misso 05/02/2008: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
The Ugly American 04/25/2008: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Dumpling heaven in Chinatown 04/18/2008: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Javier 04/11/2008: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
An update of Indian cuisine, faithful to authentic flavors 04/04/2008: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
This versatile kitchen's flavors sing 03/28/2008: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Le Virtù 03/19/2008: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Cafe Apamate 02/29/2008: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Astral Plane Millenium 02/22/2008: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Supper's on - really on 02/15/2008: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Las Bugambilias 02/08/2008: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Ted's on Main 02/01/2008: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Max & David's 01/25/2008: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
St. Stephen's Green 01/18/2008: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Cochon 01/11/2008: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Blue Pear Bistro 01/02/2008: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
The Belgian Cafe 12/21/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Shundeez 12/14/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
City Grange 12/06/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Silk City Diner 11/22/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Bluefin 11/16/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Honey 11/09/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Coquette 11/02/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Memdee's 10/26/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Ida Mae's 10/19/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
From Django to Kennett Square 10/11/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Salento 10/05/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Chabaa Thai Bistro 09/28/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Teresa's Next Door 09/20/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
A welcome homecoming 09/14/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
707 Restaurant & Bar 09/06/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Modo Mio 08/31/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Cosimo 08/19/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Rylei 08/10/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Did its move spoil Fuji? Not a bit 08/03/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Tiffin 07/27/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Legal Sea Foods 07/20/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Shore Dining | At the stove, at the table, family flavor 07/13/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Survivor: Shore Dining 07/06/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Craig LaBan | Onasis 06/29/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Endless small wonders 06/22/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Craig LaBan | Zot 06/01/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Review: Miran 05/25/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Craig LaBan | Osteria 05/18/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Casino buffet or Buddakan? 05/18/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Kitchen 233 02/04/2008: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic
Copper Bistro 01/21/2007: By Craig LaBan , Inquirer Restaurant Critic

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