"I strongly recommend serving cheese with the freshest baguette you can find," she said. "Many crackers have strong flavors that would clash with or detract from these top-of-the-line artisan cheeses."

The accompaniment should accentuate the cheese's flavor or contrast it, but not mask it, she continued. "If you choose to serve foods with cheeses, keep it simple. The cheese is the star of the show. I like to make jams, flavored mustard, candied nuts, but I only serve a small amount."

Cheese should be taken out of the refrigerator about 30 minutes before serving and should be served at room temperature.

The selection below would be best served after a meal. Plan on about 3/4 of an ounce per person.

_ Cypress Grove Truffle Tremor (Humboldt County, Calif.): A new cheese from the makers of Humboldt Fog, probably one of the best-known American artisan cheeses and certainly one of the most consistently excellent.

Truffle Tremor is a goat's milk cheese studded with fresh black truffles. Serve with local honey (which also goes well with all the cheeses here).

_ Sweet Grass Dairy Green Hill (Thomasville, Ga.): A Camembert-style cheese from the South that lacks the pungency of its French counterpart but has all the luscious butterfat and satisfying mouth feel. Serve with fresh berries or fruit jams.

_ Cobb Hill Ascutney Mountain (Hartland, Vt.): Alpine-style cheese (think Gruyere or Comte) made by a sustainable-living community in Vermont. It has a sweet, nutty taste that is buttery and full-flavored. Serve with Chocolate Hazelnuts (see recipe below).

_ Rogue Creamery Crater Lake Blue (Central Point, Ore.): Unique blue cheese with a silky texture and copious blue veins running throughout, it has a bold flavor without the in-your-face bite of Roquefort or Cabrales. Serve with Chocolate Hazelnuts.

CHOCOLATE HAZELNUTS

12 ounces whole

hazelnuts, skin on

8 ounces semi-sweet chocolate chips

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

On a small baking tray, place the hazelnuts in a single layer. Toast in preheated oven for 12 minutes, until color changes slightly and nuts are toasted through.

Meanwhile, put the chocolate chips in a large metal mixing bowl. When the hazelnuts are ready, pour them into the bowl with the chocolate (they should be very hot) and mix them carefully with a wooden spoon or heat-proof spatula until melted and hazelnuts are coated with a thin layer of chocolate.

Transfer to a clean, flat baking tray and spread out in a single layer. Let cool completely and store at room temperature in a well-sealed container. *