My first visit to the firefighter-themed SmokeEaters Pub, on Frankford Avenue in Mayfair, had a comedic subtext - just like Denis Leary's TV show, "Rescue Me," based on a fictional fire house in New York.

Turns out, the signature Mike Foley award-winning Firehouse Chili takes two days to make. Now - depending on whose version you believe - the kitchen forgot to start a new batch two days ago or it is too hot for chili in August.

But, in late August missing chili can be forgiven no matter the reason. So, too, the couple of other heavier items being dropped from the menu.

SmokeEaters gets its name honestly - owner Brian Haughton is a working firefighter, and the bar is decorated with firefighter gear and memorabilia donated from Philadelphia and even England and Ireland.

The menu, too, is based on the firehouse theme. Getting high marks from all tasters are the Chicken Wings ($7/dozen). Heat options range from Rookie to HazMat hot. We truly enjoyed the hot and honey version that had a great combo of heat and sweet.

Another winning dish was the Crabmeat Dip ($8.95). This cream-cheese-based dish must have roots in a recipe from the '50s or '60s. Perfect for sharing, it's an addictive blend.

My biggest criticism extends beyond the dipping bread for the dip. Even the sandwich bread is too soft and lacks texture and flavor. It screams, "I came out of plastic and lived in a big-box store for a while."

A Philadelphia bar needs Philadelphia bread - the kind that goes from the bakery to the kitchen and has a crust and, most of all, flavor.

When I mentioned this to Haughton, he responded that his dad (recently retired and taking on the newly invented SmokeEaters position of inventory manager) could make a Sarcone's run.

You gotta figure a guy who runs into burning buildings can think on his feet.

The bagged buns worked just fine for the Hot Dog ($3.95) which was nicely steamed and juicy. Sadly, it would have been even better with the award-winning chili, but that will have to wait until chili season.

The accompanying french fries, while clearly coming from the freezer and a large supplier, sure paired well with the dog and the brew.

The Onion Rings ($4.95), however, were a burning disappointment. It seemed that either the timing or temperature (or both) in the fry vat was off. The exterior crust wasn't crusty enough and the onions were a little underdone. But, the accompanying horseradish honey mustard sauce went a long way to make up for those sins.

The Southwest Egg Rolls ($8.50) disappointed in the execution. It's a great idea - spring- roll wrappers stuffed with chicken, jack cheese, black beans, corn, red peppers and spinach and fried to golden.

The balance of flavors was off and there seemed to be an odd sauce throughout. Plus, the dipping sauce was too sweet.

One hearty dish and a real value were the Mussels ($8.50). We ordered ours with a divinely garlicky white sauce that made a perfect dipping broth. And, with over two dozen mussels in the bowl, we deemed this the best value of the evening. A bread upgrade would be great here, though.

Make no mistake: This is a bar for beer drinkers. Sure, you can get about anything from a margarita ($6.25) to a $3 glass of chardonnay. But beer definitely rules here.

Sadly, the beer that was a natural for this bar, Hook and Ladder, out of Maryland, is going out of business. But, there's good attention to micro brews, and this should get even better for football season when increased consumption means that a bar can stock more variety.

Our server, the daughter of a retired firefighter, did an admirable job even though several items we ordered were out of stock during a slow August. Her good cheer and attention went a long way to keep smoldering embers of disappointment from flaming up.

Now, here's the issue about rating. I can't honestly say that there is a dish here you can't get elsewhere - and maybe even a little better. But, SmokeEaters doesn't bill itself as a trendy gastropub.

To compare it as such would be a bit like downgrading a lunch truck because it doesn't have seating. It's the expectation of "more" that would be a problem.

The food's good enough for what it is, and the memorabilia display is a unique way to give a nod to our firefighters.

And, in true firefighter service, SmokeEaters holds a number of fund-raisers for various causes and sponsors community sports teams.

Tomorrow there is a funder to support the Hero Thrill Show event that raises money for the education of survivors of men and women lost in the line of duty.

You'll find live bands and $5 cheesesteaks from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. and an appearance by the Highway Patrol motorcyclists is promised.

Plus, an evening's visit with a group of six provides a couple of drinks and a decent meal for a bill that may come to $30 each including tip. I'd say that's all worth a few tines on the rating fork.