Jim Coleman: Calamari vs. squid: Not much difference, as long as it's fresh

Q: Is there a difference between calamari and squid? My whole family enjoys fried calamari and I was told that they are interchangeable. I use a mixture of egg and bread crumbs, dipping the calamari in egg first, then bread crumbs. Is there another method for crispy calamari?

- Julie V.

- Julie V.

A: The word calamari is the plural for calamaro, which is the Italian word for squid. So anyone who hasn't had too many alcoholic beverages along with their calamari would obviously think that since calamari is the Italian word for squid, they must be one in the same. In fact, all around the Mediterranean, a dish involving fried squid is called fried calamari.

So you think I've answered your question, don't you?

Not so fast.

Believe it or not, there is a difference between calamari and squid, although most people can't distinguish one from the other.

For you, Julie, the best way to identify the difference is that calamari's wings, or flaps, are longer and more triangular and spread all the way across their bodies. Squid have smaller, pointier flaps that are very narrow at the end.

Many cooks will tell you that they prefer calamari because it's more tender and juicy than squid. They'll also say that for frying and grilling, calamari outperforms squid.

These same cooks will try to convince you that squid is best for braising and stewing, or a baked dish.

But as soon as you have bought into this seafood propaganda, you're going to find many cooks who will tell you the opposite is true.

The funny thing is, it wasn't that long ago here in the United States that squid and calamari, along with their cousins the octopus and cuttlefish, were thought of as food only in the sense that they were put on a hook to catch the food that would end up on your plate.

In the recreational fishing industry, we call this bait.

Be careful of the trickle-down effect. Especially for those who don't think humans leave a footprint on the environment.

Due to the popularity of shark fishing for food and for sport, especially off the coast of the northeastern U.S., there is a shortage of calamari. No, it's not because the sharks eat the calamari. Sharks eat skate, which in turn feed on calamari.

With no shark to eat the skate, the skate are abundant and feeding more on the calamari and squid. Thus, what was once bait has now become as expensive as the thing it was luring to the hook.

And, as with crab cakes, it is illegal to print a menu without calamari on it.

So should you shop for calamari or squid? My opinion is that it's more important to get a fresh, good product than to worry about whether it is true squid or calamari.

Regardless of which one you buy, try to choose those that are medium-sized. Larger ones end up getting tough. If they are too small, you don't get decent-sized rings.

Unless you are stuffing and baking them (so, in other words, if you are grilling, sauteing or frying), they should be cooked very quickly at high heat. This will help keep them juicy and tender.

If you're grilling, I prefer to grill them quickly and serve them at room temperature (or even chilled), drizzled with a little olive oil.

Julie, it's not that your method of cooking calamari is way off base, just make sure that your oil is nice and hot, whether using your recipe or one I am giving you.

You can use store-bought bread crumbs, panko or crumbs made from stale bread to coat the calamari/squid.

You can also use cornmeal or uncooked rice, as in the recipes below. Enjoy!

JULIE'S CALAMARI I

Vegetable oil or extra-light olive oil for frying

1 cup yellow cornmeal

1 cup all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons each kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

2 pounds fresh or thawed frozen small

calamari, bodies cleaned and cut into 1/2-inch-wide rings, tentacles reserved

2 lemons, each cut into 6 wedges

Add enough vegetable oil to a large skillet to come to a depth of 1 inch. Heat oil to 375 degrees.

Meanwhile, use a whisk to mix cornmeal, flour, salt and peppers in medium bowl. Toss calamari rings and tentacles into the cornmeal mixture, shaking off excess. Working in batches, frying calamari in oil until brown and crisp, about 3 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer calamari to paper towels to drain. Sprinkle with salt and pepper if needed. Serve with lemon wedges.

Serves 8 as an appetizer.

JULIE'S CALAMARI II

Vegetable oil or extra light olive oil for frying

2 pounds cleaned calamari

1/3 cup buttermilk

1 1/2 cups uncooked Arborio rice

3 cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon ground fennel seeds

1 1/2 tablespoons kosher salt

2 teaspoons freshly ground pepper

2 lemons, each cut into 6 wedges

To make the rice coating, grind the rice in a blender until very fine. In a bowl, stir together the ground rice, flour, fennel, salt and pepper.

Slit the calamari bodies open so they lie flat. Place the calamari in a bowl and toss each with enough buttermilk to moisten them.

Heat several inches of oil to 375 degrees in a deep fryer or deep pot. While oil heats, drain the calamari, then place some of it in a strainer over a large bowl. Sprinkle generously with rice coating and shake; repeat until the calamari is very well-coated.

Fry until golden brown and crisp, then transfer to a tray lined with paper towels. Season immediately with salt. Keep warm in a low oven. Repeat with the remaining calamari, and serve with lemon slices.

Serves 8 as an appetizer.

Chef Jim Coleman, corporate chef at Normandy Farm and Blue Bell Country Club, is the author of three cookbooks and hosts two nationally syndicated shows: "A Chef's Table," noon Saturdays on WHYY (91-FM); and "Flavors of America," 1 p.m. Saturdays on Channel 12, and 4:30 p.m. weekdays on CN8. He and his wife, writer Candace Hagan, will answer questions.

E-mail ChefColeman@aol.com.