Vacationing there, I found that boiling seemed to be the preferred method, and timing depended on size, how many lobsters went into the pot and the type of heat.

Since then I have tried lobster many ways - in delectable salads, simmered in a spicy red sauce for fra diavolo; split and grilled and bathed with a glistening coating of beurre blanc; combined with fresh corn in a savory chowder; added at the last minute to a paella that I cook over an open charcoal fire; and roasted with potatoes and onions. I love each and every dish.

Inspired by something she read, my daughter, Alexis, recently suggested that we make lobster potpie. We gave it a try, and it is now one of our favorite ways to serve this special crustacean. But whenever I think of lobster, I always crave it in its simplest form: boiled, which is quintessential Maine. And if the lobster is a shredder - one that has recently outgrown its tight, hard shell - even better.

A lobster molts four to five times a year as it matures, shedding its shell about 20 times before it reaches 1 pound, the legal size for harvesting. Keep in mind that the shell doesn't turn red until the lobster is cooked.

The preparation technique for boiling varies slightly depending on whom you ask, but there are little things that I've picked up along the way, such as adding a bit of vodka to the boiling water to relax the lobster; and, after cooking, snipping the tips of the lobster's claws to let the excess water drain out and using the tines of a fork to loosen the tail meat from the shell so that it pops out in one delicious piece.

The nutritional analysis of lobster is also extremely interesting. The succulent, sweet meat is low in saturated fat and calories, and lower in cholesterol than turkey or chicken - but that does not include drawn butter!

Here's the recipe for boiled lobster, cooked in the same pot as the potatoes and fresh corn. In late summer, a fine side is a simple salad with heirloom tomatoes and a few slices of red onion.

For more lobster recipes, go to www.marthastewart.com/lobster.

BOILED LOBSTERS

WITH CORN AND POTATOES

1 1/2 pounds small Yukon Gold

potatoes

1 large onion, quartered

2 heads garlic, halved crosswise (do not peel)

1/2 cup coarse salt

4 live lobsters (1 1/4 pounds each)

4 ears of corn, shucked and halved

Drawn Butter (recipe follows)

1. Fill a lobster pot or other large pot two-thirds full with water. Add potatoes, onion, garlic and salt. Cover and bring to a boil.

2. Uncover, reduce heat to medium and cook until potatoes begin to soften, about 8 to 10 minutes. Add lobsters headfirst. Cover and cook until shells are bright red, about 5 to 6 minutes. Add corn and cook for 3 minutes more.

3. Remove potatoes, lobsters and corn from water; discard onion and garlic. Using kitchen shears, clip tips of lobster claws and let drain. Serve potatoes, lobsters and corn with butter. Makes 4 servings.

DRAWN BUTTER

8 ounces (2 sticks) unsalted butter

1. Melt butter in a small saucepan over low heat until butter foams and solids sink to bottom, about 15 minutes. Remove from heat. Let cool.

2. Carefully skim foam from top and discard. Pour clear butter into a bowl, leaving any solids in pan; discard solids. (Drawn butter can be refrigerated for up to 1 month.)

Serve warm. Makes 3/4 cup. *

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