Prost! Brauhaus Schmitz (718 South St.) is finally open, and its owners, Kelly Schmitz-Hager and her husband, Doug Hager, are doing it right.

The restaurant is beautifully appointed, with fine oak details, antique apothecary boxes left from a previous occupant and a giant plaque of the Reinheitsgebot, the 1516 German beer purity law.

I've had only a couple of dishes so far, including a very filling smoked trout salad.

They're even serving authentic Bavarian-style pretzels that could give Philly's best vendor carts a run for the money.

The beer? Eighty bottles plus 20 taps. In most cases, the drafts are among the finest of their respective German styles. Consider:

Hefeweizen: Ayinger Brau Weisse.

Rauchbier: Aecht Schlenkerla Helles.

Weizenbock: Schneider Aventinus.

Altbier: Uerige Sticke.

German pils: Jever.

Even better: The waitresses wear dirndls, which, depending on your interests, is either a nice touch of authenticity or just plain easy on the eyes. Either way, it's tip bait.

Here's another new joint to put on your radar: Varga Bar (941 Spruce St., Washington Square West).

The place blew open the doors in May with a primo beer list, and the 20 taps have been turning over quickly. This week the stars include: Rogue Somer Orange Honey Ale, Ithaca Flower Power, Founders Backwoods Bastard and a cask of oak-aged Yards ESA.

And check out the kitchen's beer cuisine, including Not My Mom's Spam - ham brined with Dogfish Head Aprihop. The fries on the side are served in an empty Spam tin.

On the horizon: Iron Hill Brewery & Restaurant's (124 E. Kings Highway, Maple Shade) first location in Jersey should be opening shortly. Brewer Chris LaPierre has already fired up the kettles.

Further down the road: Resurrection (Grays Ferry Avenue and Catharine Street, Grays Ferry) will open at the site of the recently shuttered Yello Bar. It's the third beer-centric tavern from Brendan "Spanky" Hartranft and Leigh Maida, who also run Memphis Taproom in Port Richmond and Local 44 in West Philly.