The Main course 9-13
Jasmine Café
Rating: 
They share high hopes of attracting a strong following of locals who will appreciate their authentic cuisine of China’s northeast: Beijing, Chengdu and Szechuan.
They took over the storefront that had previously been the long-running Little Shanghai, whose owners retired.
Jeff worked in several upscale Main Line Asian restaurants, and was trained in one of China’s culinary institutes. The couple met in the U.S., but both grew up in Fujiang on the central coast of China.
Liang brings his native background and training to bear in many of the dishes listed on his “My Favorites” part of the menu.
He promises authenticity on the menu’s front page. He feted my L.D.C. (Lovely Dining Companion) and I to an omikase (“chef’s choice”) dinner.
On average, the very piquant spice is at a higher level than typical, with quite a few dishes marked “spicy” in red type.
Two of these from the Chinese menu had my taste buds fully awake. An appetizer of Szechuan dumplings ($4.95) came in a brown sauce with finely chopped roasted garlic. The dumplings were presented on a leaf of lettuce and were filled with ground pork and spices.
An entrée, Szechuan filet of fish, lightly breaded fingers of tender tilapia, was tossed with Mandarin noodles and Szechuan seasonings ($12.95). The dish might have been given the name “General Tso’s Fish,” because it reminded me of General Tso’s Chicken, which is a favorite of mine.
My L.D.C., however, dissented, saying it wasn’t sweet like General Tso’s, and that she disliked the sauce, the noodles or the fish, which left her nothing to like.
Liang balanced these out with two of his Japanese cuisine selections: Miso Yaki ($10.95), an appetizer, and Jasmine Café Teriyaki ($21.95), one of his signature entrées.
The Miso Yaki was an exquisite filet of lightly grilled, moist sea bass in a mildly sweet orange Miso sauce, beautifully presented with a winged bird carved from carrot. It was the meal’s best single dish.
The teriyaki “surf and turf” platter boasted very savory sliced steak, which got better with every bite, one small succulent lobster tail, shrimp that were a little overcooked and not tender, and lots of sautéed onions.
The authentic sauce was much milder than most teriyakis I have tasted.
I was rather impressed with the wide selection of teas — black oolongs, greens, and white teas — that were listed on a separate menu. I especially appreciated the high quality of the pots of oolong tea.
Next year, the Liangs plan to introduce sushi and perhaps a small sushi bar. Locals should appreciate the opportunity to experience this level of authentic Asian food without having to drive to Center City. If the more authentic dishes are not for you, there is an ample selection of more traditional American-Chinese fare.
Delicious and authentic Asian food with a wide variety to choose from gets an overall rating of mmm 1/4 (out of 5 m’s)
Briefly Noted: Lovers of fresh oysters and clams on the half shell will want to return to one of Philly’s best-loved seafood houses, the Sansom Street Oyster House, now simply called the Oyster House.
After an extended period to refurbish and refresh, it has reopened with a much more open and pleasant single dining room layout, emphasizing the much larger oyster bar. I visited recently and enjoyed it much more than ever. To contact Mitch Davis, you can e-mail him at: MdavisMainCourse@aol.com
Jasmine Café Location: 3140 W. Ridge Pike, Eagleville Phone Number: 610-635-0288 Cuisine: Northeastern Chinese and Japanese Ambience: Plain with well-space tables Hours: Monday to Saturday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Sunday 3 to 9:30 p.m. Prices: Appetizers, soups: $2 to $11; Entrées: $8 to $22 (average $12) Alcoholic Beverages: B.Y.O.B. Web site: www.jasminecafepa.com
