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The Main course 11-8

Verdad Restaurant & Tequila Bar

Rating:

Up until a few months ago, if you wanted to have good tapas (small plate dishes originally served in Spanish bars to accompany the riojas, sparkling cavas, and the dry sherrys), you had to head in to Center City. The growth and popularity of this style of food was not missed by the talented restaurateur/chef Nick Farina, leading him to open Verdad last June.

Dining on a variety of small, palate-thrilling dishes has become very much in vogue, and rightly so. For many today, the large, overflowing dinner plate of steak or fish, potato and vegetable, is more intimidating and boring than it is appetizing. Indeed, analogously, the meteoric rise in the popularity of sushi is all about dining on many small plate treats.

Verdad’s menu of classic Spanish tapas also has dishes influenced by Cuban, Brazilian and Mexican cuisines, often using fusion techniques. For example, you might see classic Valencia paella and halibut en papillote on his menu next to ceviche and tacos, a Cuban sandwich, Malbec oysters, charcuterie, stuffed figs, tortilla soup and a lobster fritatta. Among the variety of tapas are short ribs, lamb, crispy tuna and wild salmon with goat cheese risotto.

Verdad Tapas Restaurant and Tequila Bar occupies the space two doors down from the Bryn Mawr theater, which had been Carmine’s Creole restaurant. Changes in the interior were mostly cosmetic. The warm lighting — candles and electric — and wall décor are lovely.

Our server was friendly and efficient, and mostly quite knowledgeable. What he did not know he was quick to ask the kitchen.

The handsome bar and lounge in the front room is inviting for either a drink with or without a tapa dish, or for a full meal.

A dozen Spanish, Argentine and Chilean wines are available by the glass ($7 to $11 each), and more in bottles. About 30 different quality tequila shots can be sampled ($8 and up). Various margaritas and other Latin-inspired cocktails, as well as Mexican and local beers are purveyed.

I totally enjoyed a freshly made-to-order Sangria Tinto, chilled red wine, seasonal fruit, brandy and club soda in a large glass.

My L.D.C. (Lovely Dining Companion) and I went there on a midweek night and found a good-size crowd in the bar and the rear dining room. We were quickly provided with complimentary sun-dried tomato bread and olive tapenade spread.

Of the five small plate dishes we had, there were two hits, a near hit, and two near misses. Batter-fried calamari with red pepper in a garlic adobo sauce was tasty enough, but almost all heads and tentacles, not the squid rings promised.

Spinach salad ($8) included delicious, creamy, warm goat cheese bon-bons, but my L.D.C. found the dressing too lemony.

The near hit was a tapas dish of excellent sea bass filet over sautéed fennel and oysters. But the oysters I was expecting were two tiny off-tasting tidbits — disappointing.

The clear winners were the sublime scallops tapa ($11) in a fusion sauce of fennel, hearts of palm, horseradish compote and agave nectar. The super-tender, tasty, succulent Mapleleaf duck tapa ($13) glazed with pineapple tequila was another hit. The tapas presentations on white porcelain were all lovely.

Verdad also features three paellas, which looked very enticing, and which I plan to try them on my next visit.

Good tapas and tequila bar as well as a lovely ambiance get an overall rating of 3 3/4 (out of 5 m’s).

To contact Mitch Davis, you can e-mail him at: MdavisMainCourse@aol.com

Verdad Restaurant & Tequila Bar Location: 818 W. Lancaster Ave., Bryn Mawr Phone Number: 610-520-9100 Cuisine: Euro-Latin eclectic Ambience: Upscale and comfortable Hours: Lunch: Tuesday to Saturday 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.; Dinner: Tuesday to Thursday 5 to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 5 to 11 p.m.; Sunday 5 to 9 p.m.; Sunday Brunch: 10:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Prices: Salads, soups: $4 to $10; Small plates: $7 to $21; Large plates: (Serve two to four) $28 to $45 Web site: www.theverdad.com Alcoholic Beverages: Full-service bar
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