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Table for Two 8-16

Azie on Main

Rating:

Although Azie on Main has been open less than a month and is somewhat hidden from the traffic that passes by on Lancaster Avenue, diners have found it.

During our visit on a Wednesday evening, there was already a vibe starting in the lounge area and continuing through the bar, sushi bar and back dining room. Well-dressed patrons sat at the adjoining bars or were seated in the booths around the perimeter.

We took our seats at the modern sushi bar and were greeted by the most senior of the three sushi chefs. We asked him for his recommendations and mentioned that we’d like to try the ceviche ($17), which is usually prepared with bluefin tuna.

He noted that the scallops were very fresh that evening and served the sweet, meltingly tender bites in the slightly spicy citrus sauce with matchstick cucumber, small orange segments and an edible flower.

Our server was bringing our drinks as we finished. We had a Stella Artois ($7) from their moderate list since they had run out of Kirin. The single cold sake currently available ($15) was served in a small glass carafe in an ice bath.

We continued with our sushi education by tasting small pieces of prized o-toro and chu-toro on a platter ($28) for comparison of the richest cuts of bluefin.

Four pieces of madai (Japanese red snapper) sushi ($16) had a shiso leaf middle and slightly spicy ponzu sauce on top.

With the help of the sushi chef, we had our server bring some of the appetizers from the kitchen.

The chilled asparagus with ginger sesame sauce ($5) was perfectly cooked, tender asparagus beneath the slightly sweet sauce. A large bowl of edamame ($5) sprinkled with sea salt was also perfectly steamed. A rectangular plate of Kobe beef carpaccio ($16) was eight paper-thin slices of marbled meat that we thought were overpowered by the oily citrus sauce, but still very good.

Our next course was a plate of four kumamoto oysters and two from Peugot Sound served on the half shell on a bed of shaved ice, lemon slices and an orchid. A mignonette and a special cocktail sauce made with wasabi in place of horseradish were in small cups. The oysters were fresh and cold.

The chef asked us about our favorite fish. The Carnivore had two pieces of bluefin maguro (tuna) ($8) while the Dessert Hound requested hamachi (yellowtail) ($8), which nearly melted in our mouths.

We finished with a piece of uni (sea urchin) atop a scallop sushi ($10), which was almost excessively rich, but we loved it.

The chef told us that the owners brought in a top pastry chef from Japan to make all desserts from scratch. He recommended the green tea tiramisu ($9).

Along with our education in sushi, we also learned to trust the chef’s recommendations. The tiramisu was a light layer of soaked cookie crumbs between rich, fluffy whipped marscapone, topped with powdered green tea. A scoop of green tea ice cream, blackberries and raspberries with a maple syrup sauce complemented the generous piece of tiramisu.

The chefs are attentive to quality ingredients and details. The somewhat sporadic service seemed to be a known liability with two managers trying to help organize the flow of the waitstaff. Although we sampled items with “Main Line prices,” there are options from the menu that are more reasonably priced and mainstream: seared diver scallops ($22) and chicken ($15) or salmon ($16) teriyaki entrees.

Overall rating: 4 and one-half forks (out of 5).

The Dining Duo base their reviews on unannounced anonymous visits.

Azie on Main Location: 789 East Lancaster Ave., Villanova Phone Number: 610-527-5700 Cuisine: Asian Fusion Ambience: Upscale club

Hours: Lunch: Monday to Friday 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; Dinner: Monday to Thursday 5 to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 5 to 10:30 p.m.; Sunday 5 to 9 p.m.; Sunday brunch: 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.; Bar is open until 1 a.m.

Prices: Appetizers, soups $4 to $20; Entrees $15 to $38; Alcoholic Beverages: Full-service bar Web site: www.azieonmain.com
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