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Table for Two 11-1

Sola

Rating:

We were greeted by a server as we entered and were seated at a table for two along the side wall.

He opened our wine and left us with menus as he went to get our choice of tap water. Another server returned to recite the specials.

We ordered three appetizers, and our server asked if we wished them to be served at once or staggered, which we appreciated. He quickly returned with an amuse bouche of black mission fig and goat cheese with pomegranate molasses on a small silver spoon. The single bite was a perfect start.

Soon after the amuse dish was cleared, we were presented with a basket containing a slice of herbed focaccia, a brioche and an herbed grain roll along with a square ceramic container deftly filled with butter.

We were struck by the saffron colored stucco walls, white tablecloth-covered tables and dark wood china cabinets, but what draws the eye is a large painting.

Our first course of Wagyu (American Kobe) Beef Carpaccio ($14) was paper-thin slices of nicely marbled meat fanned around lightly breaded fried oysters topped with shavings of aged cheese and peppery sprouts. We would have preferred more beef and no oysters, but both were excellent.

The pan-seared Hudson Valley foie gras ($18) brought a moderate-sized portion of rich, meltingly decadent liver with a sweet-tart maroon-colored sauce drizzled over it. A small round of brioche-thyme bread pudding was moist and rich. Slightly gummy pieces of homemade duck prosciutto and poached plums completed the plate.

Our second separate course of hand-cut sweet potato gnocchi ($12) was a heartier dish than the previous two, but equally well done. Tender, light orange balls of pasta went well with tender bites of shredded lamb, but we left some of the cherries and orange-infused herbed ball of ricotta to save room for our entrées.

One of the drawbacks to our evening was the closeness of the neighboring tables along the wall. For a midweek evening, the restaurant was rather busy, possibly due to the $35 prix fixe menu offered, or the dining program that rewards weekday diners.

In an interesting turn of events, the Carnivore preferred the Dessert Hound’s choice of entrée, and vice versa. The dry aged N.Y. strip steak ($30) was a tender 8-ounce boneless piece of beef topped with roasted shiitake mushrooms. A thick “Maderia jus lie” was poured over it tableside just prior to serving. The sauce and mushrooms were sensory overload for the Carnivore, who prefers the full flavor of meat. Rectangles of crispy fried, breaded polenta fries were an interesting take on French fries.

The Australian Rack of Lamb ($32) brought five tender, meaty chops atop braised fennel puree and ratatouille. The puree was a silky and rich alternative to mashed potatoes, livened up with the mixed vegetable stew. A small mound of mango chutney had a fresh firm texture with red pepper spice.

We asked for the remainder of our entrées to be packed to take with us. The server returned with a container and asked for our dessert order.

We requested a peanut butter gelato ($8) to be packaged for us to take home. Our server explained that he would have to check with the chef, since he may not allow that to travel.

After several minutes, the server returned with a container of two scoops of gelato thick with peanut butter and pieces of bittersweet chocolate. He asked if we cared for anything else, and we requested our check.

Excellent, creative food and good service get an overall rating of 4 1/2 (out of 5). The Dining Duo base their reviews on unannounced anonymous visits.

Sola Location: 614 W. Lancaster Ave., Bryn Mawr Phone Number: 610-526-0123 Cuisine: Contemporary American Ambience: Upscale B.Y.O.B. Hours: Tuesday to Saturday 5:30 to 10 p.m. Prices: Appetizers, soups $10 to $18; Entrée $24 to $32 Alcoholic Beverages: B.Y.O.B. Web Site: www.solabyob.com
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