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Table for Two 10-11

Marshalton Inn

Rating:

When we arrived for our Saturday dinner reservation at the historic Marshalton Inn, we encountered an overflowing parking lot. We later learned this was due to a party at its neighboring casual sister restaurant The Four Dogs Tavern.

We were not asked for our preference of indoor or outdoor seating, but were allowed to choose from tables on either the front or side porch. We assumed that the dining room would soon be full, so we chose one of the white tablecloth-covered spots on the front porch.

The large hurricane lamp candle, white linens and padded, sturdy black wrought iron chairs made a lovely setting. Unfortunately, the traffic going by and the firehouse across the street detracted from the upscale ambience.

The friendly server who seated us took our drink orders and allowed us time to browse the concise menu. We asked about ordering from the tavern menu, which was more extensive, and she returned with a copy of that as well, along with a bottle of Budweiser ($3.50).

We placed our order, mainly from the Inn menu printed for the weekend, and chose a bottle of wine from the less expensive list, rather than the “Captain’s Reserve.” Our server poured the 2007 Washington Hills cabernet sauvignon ($29) into quality glasses before we were asked to taste it. We found our selection to be very thin for this variety.

Several other patrons were seated outside while we waited for our food, wishing we had dressed for the late summer evening temperature.

A generous plate of arugula, large vibrant chunks of watermelon, chopped quality black olives and small bits of feta cheese in a vinaigrette made up the watermelon salad ($12). This novel combination worked, with the mix of sweet melon and salty olive balanced by the peppery greens. It was the high point of our meal.

A crock of clam and corn chowder ($7) had a sweet, thick, but not heavy broth. Small pieces of corn kernels and chopped clams mixed with larger rounds of carrots and celery ribs detracted from the blend of flavors.

A warm mini-loaf of white bread in a basket with a salt and pepper-coated cube of butter came while we were enjoying our appetizers.

A fish taco ($15) from the tavern menu arrived with the macaroni and cheese ($18.50). A metal pie plate held a fried, battered filet of white fish drizzled with an avocado and sour cream sauce atop a tossed, vinaigrette-dressed salad of romaine lettuce, matchstick carrots, cucumber, tomato and fresh cilantro. We started to assemble our tacos using the flour tortillas brought on a separate plate, but found the tortillas were breaking apart as we ate. We instead had a Baja-style fish salad.

The macaroni and cheese was advertised as enough for two, but we found the metal paella platter filled with rich, artisan cheese and prosciutto-studded pasta topped with toasted breadcrumbs to be more than enough for two, with several additional meals over the following days.

A large plate of beef stroganoff ($18.50) was tender beef chunks and mushroom slices over egg noodles. It was in a rich sauce with a mustard flavor beyond the tang of sour cream, but it was too salty.

We had certainly ordered more than we could possibly finish, and finally got our server’s attention. We asked for the remaining food to be packed to go. We declined dessert due to the hour and temperature of the crisp evening, although we would have liked to try the pastry chef’s offerings. On a trip up the narrow stairs to the restrooms, we noted that no one had been seated indoors in the dining room.

Overall rating: three forks (out of 5). The Dining Duo base their reviews on unannounced anonymous visits.

Marshalton Inn Location: 1300 W. Strasburg Road, West Chester Phone Number: 610-692-4367 Cuisine: Comfort French/American Ambience: Historic Inn Hours: Friday, Saturday and Sunday Dinner: 5 to 9 p.m. Prices: Appetizers, soups $7 to $13; Entrée $17 to $21 Alcoholic Beverages: Full-service bar Web site: www.marshaltoninn.com
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