Table for Two 9-6
Big Fork
Rating: 
This restaurant is a family affair between three brothers. While the chef-owner prepares food in the kitchen, another brother may be providing service in the dining room. They included a third brother, now living in Big Fork, Mont., in the name and theme of the restaurant.
We were greeted and seated in the mustard-colored dining room with chocolate-brown cloth napkins and honey wood tables. Water and wine glasses were promptly presented as we read the short menu.
Our server announced the evening’s specials while opening our wine. Although there were only seven entrée choices, we still had difficulty in choosing from the tempting selection of chicken, fish and beef, and one special.
Once we placed our order, our server brought us large squares of inch-and-a-half -thick slices of light, spongy homemade focaccia and a dish of olive oil.
We relaxed into the calm, mountain feel of the rooms separated by a partial wall. The original artwork on the walls and silk flowers incorporated the dark browns and golds of the décor.
The special roasted vegetable soup ($6) was a hot puree of predominantly red peppers and tomatoes balanced with herbs. Generous lumps of chevre topping melted slowly into the bowl to add richness and tang. A sprig of micro basil gave a refreshing kick.
The crispy duck turnover ($9) brought tender duck confit atop a bed of sautéed leeks and a mild, slightly sweet creamy center on a thin, crispy circle of puff pastry. A side of spring mix tossed in a light buttermilk dressing and mandarin orange segments completed the plate.
The hanger steak ($24) was a moderate-sized piece of tender, seared beef cooked to order. A ramekin of rich mac ’n’ cheese with breadcrumb topping and mounded strings of lightly battered, sweet onion rings made this an upscale version of the standard rendition. The “B1 steak sauce,” with notes of chili powder and garlic, but no overwhelming spice, was a nice addition.
The scallops special ($22) had four plump, sweet, perfectly seared scallops surrounding succotash in a lobster broth.
We hesitated ordering a dish containing succotash after many bad grade school cafeteria encounters with the canned variety, but our risk was rewarded. A mixture of al dente Yukon gold potato slices, lima beans, corn and sausage bits with diced tomato and finely chopped fresh basil was an ode to summer produce. The combination with the scallops made for a perfectly light, yet satisfying entrée.
Three homemade desserts were offered on the Thursday evening of our visit. We chose the tiramisu ($6) over a traditional crème brulee or chocolate lava cake. The tiramisu was a triangular slice of light layers of soaked cake and marscapone, dusted with cocoa.
With the restaurant’s somewhat hidden location in the back of a strip mall on Route 202, we assume that many people may not have noticed it. The night of our visit, the other diners seemed to be regulars, based on their interactions with the server. We were glad we found this fork in the road, which lead to an enjoyable experience.
The friendly, attentive service and warm, earthy décor enhanced our well-executed meal that gets an overall rating of 4 and one-half forks (out of 5).
The Dining Duo base their reviews on unannounced anonymous visits.
Big Fork
Location: 100 Ridge Road, Chadds Ford (Olde Ridge Village Shops) Phone Number: 610-358-8008 Cuisine: Modern French Ambience: Rustic Comfort Hours: Summer: Tuesday to Saturday open at 5:30 p.m. Prices: Appetizers, soups $6 to $10; Entrees $19 to $26 Alcoholic Beverages: B.Y.O.B. Web site: www.bigforkrestaurant.com Reservations: Recommended
