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The Weekly Entrée 8-23

Cactus Grill

Rating:

After a lifetime spent working for others in the restaurant field, Mary Elcavage was ready to open her own place. While driving through the Bucks countryside 15 years ago, she spotted this location north of Doylestown for sale. It was a perfect spot to open a restaurant serving her favorite type of food: ribs, steaks and fresh fish. It reminded her of restaurants in the southwestern U.S. where many of her relatives live. Having frequented that part of the country, I can understand why. Like many of the places in the landscape of the Southwest, this place is appealing in its simplicity with its open beam and tile inlaid tables. Whether you sit inside or on the open deck in the back, you get a lovely view of nature with sloping fields and trees. It’s a prime example of the diverse beauty we enjoy living in Bucks County. What was a restaurant, a ski chalet in the 50s and 60s, a bikers bar and a church — not necessarily in that order — became once again a thriving restaurant.

Live Americana musical entertainment is offered on Friday and Saturday evenings to add to the fun experience of country dining.

Family members as well as a dedicated staff, many of whom have been with her since the beginning, are helping Elcavage realize her dream in the restaurant. She’s assisted in the kitchen by two chefs who relish having high-quality, fresh ingredients to prepare each dish.

Although the menu has enough options to please every taste, we decided to go with those that made this place popular.

For appetizers, we chose the Cactus Grill wings and margarita shrimp. Not sure how hot the “hot” wings would be, we stuck with medium-heat sauce. The wings were very meaty with a nice, crisp finish.

The sauce was flavorful, but next time I’ll go with the hot sauce as this was a little too mild for my taste.

The large shrimp are sautéed in tequila lime butter and served in an ice cream sundae glass filled with a virgin margarita sauce. This unique dish is a pleasant switch from the traditional shrimp cocktail.

My spouse ordered the jumbo lump crab cakes while I had a full rack of the barbecue baby back ribs.

The crab cakes came as two large, round mounds resembling tennis balls. They had very little filling, just enough to bind the crabmeat together, with a golden finish and great taste.

The ribs were finished so the meat did not fall off the bone but came off with the requisite minimal amount of effort. The homemade barbecue sauce had a tinge of sweetness that added to its flavor.

I tried to eat the ribs with a fork and knife, but the flavor was so good, I quickly gave up and dove in with both hands and cleaned up with the moist towelettes provided. Both dishes were served with a fresh vegetable medley and homemade scalloped potatoes. For dessert, the specials board had one of my favorites, key lime pie. So while my spouse had a bowl of premium vanilla ice cream with chocolate sauce, I had a slice of pie that was so big, most places might classify it as two slices.

My first thought was I’d never finish it, but it was so good, I quickly changed my mind. Situated in a bucolic setting, serving great food, this place rates an AHHHHH (5) out of 5 AHs.

E-mail Jim Clark at weeklyentree@verizon.net.

Location: Route 611 North, Pipersville Cuisine: Southwestern Alcoholic Beverages: Full-service bar Ambience: Casual Hours: Lunch: Sunday 11:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m.; Monday and Wednesday to Saturday 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.; Dinner: Sunday 4 to 9 p.m.; Monday 5 to 9 p.m.; Wednesday and Thursday 5 to 9:30 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 5 to 10 p.m.; Closed Thursday Prices: Soups, salads, appetizers: $4.99 to $13.99; Entrees: $13.99 to $28.99 Phone Number: 215-766-9840 Web site: www.cactusgrill.net
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