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Table for Two 8-9

Johnny’s New Orleans Pizza Kitchen

Rating:

We admit that we’re not the biggest fans of Creole cuisine, but John Mims has established quite a reputation locally for both his food and his kitchen drama. We decided to see what a New Orleans-style pizza might be like and entered the more casual side of his newly-opened twin spaces on the main street of Phoenixville.

On this rainy midweek summer night, there were only a few tables taken in the mustard-colored space. We were greeted and allowed to sit where we pleased. We were presented with paper menus for both the pizza place and the more upscale Daddy Mim’s. Our server asked for our drink orders and returned with large paper cups of water with lemon slices and glasses for our zinfandel.

We remarked that we were disappointed that the personal-size pizzas were only available for lunch since we wanted to try several different varieties. Our friendly server told us that it would be possible to get the smaller pizzas since they were not too busy that night. She suggested the spinach and wild mushroom along with the three decidedly Creole specialties.

We decided to sample from both menus. The crab bisque ($6) was an ample portion of thick, but not heavy puree with scallions and lump crabmeat floating in the center. The spiciness was nicely balanced.

Our server had also described the shrimp remoulade ($10) at our request and noted it was one of her favorites. We enjoyed the six blackened pieces of small shrimp served beneath a spicy, creamy mustard-based sauce atop shredded iceberg lettuce, diced orange pepper, scallions and a slice of tomato on a chilled plate.

The pizzas arrived as we were finishing our appetizers. The spinach and wild mushroom ($4) was a light blend of pesto and sweet sundried tomatoes with chunks of mushrooms and spinach leaves covered thickly with high-quality melted cheese. The crust was crisp and of medium thickness.

Johnny’s Pie ($4) was a more traditional red pizza with extra pepperoni and less sauce. We didn’t do any special requests on this one and couldn’t detect any Tabasco sauce, which was listed in the ingredients “if you dare.” The Carnivore was quite happy with the additional meat.

We both enjoyed the Jambalaya ($6), which combined the best of that classic stew on a pizza, down to the “holy trinity” of cajun cooking, which is a combination of onions, celery and bell pepper.

The chopped shrimp were larger than in the remoulade and cooked perfectly. Chunks of andouille sausage and a spicy, but not overwhelming Creole sauce tucked under thick melted cheese made a winning combination.

We also ordered the crabcake entrée ($24) from the Daddy Mim’s menu. A huge round of lump crab meat with significant filler was a bit of a disappointment. While the crab was fresh, we would prefer a smaller serving without the bread-like stuffing.

Toppings of scallions and spicy sauce added a kick to the entrée served on roasted spinach leaves.

We had good portions of our pizzas and crab cake packed to take home. The Dessert Hound also requested that a cinnamon bun bread pudding ($7) be added to the takehome bag.

The dessert was reminiscent of a gourmet cinnamon roll with high-quality cinnamon swirled in the bread with plump raisins. The decadent frosting, although rather sweet, was the perfect topping. We were glad that we had taken this home, since our sighs of enjoyment may have been too much for a public place, even in New Orleans.

Delicious cajun-inspired food gets an overall rating of 4 forks (out of 5). The Dining Duo base their reviews on unannounced anonymous visits.

Johnny’s New Orleans Pizza Kitchen Location: 150 Bridge St., Phoenixville Phone Number: 610-935-1800 Cuisine: Pizza with Creole flair Ambience: Upscale Pizza Hours: Monday to Thursday 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 11 a.m. to 2 a.m.; Sunday noon to 9 p.m. Prices: Appetizers, soups $5 to $7; Entrees $7 to $24 Alcoholic Beverages: B.Y.O.B. Web site: www.daddymims.com
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